Zegna concluded Milan Fashion Week in breathtaking fashion with a remarkable show that honored the beauty of linen and nature. The event took place outdoors, beneath the stunning backdrop of clear blue skies and near the iconic La Scala theater. Alessandro Sartori, the creative director of Zegna, embraced the concept of purity by showcasing natural materials, specifically linen. Earlier in the day, Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor commenced the final day of Fashion Week with a collection that featured vibrant colors and intricate embroidery.
Piazza San Fedele was transformed into a serene rural landscape for Zegna’s fashion show. The space was adorned with 192 bales of flax from Normandy, a region famous for producing the finest linen in the world. These bales will eventually be transformed into yarn to create Zegna’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Sartori skillfully played with a diverse range of colors, including white, ebony black, sand and earth tones, greys, army greens, and refreshing pastels like mint and old rose. He seamlessly blended these colors together, resulting in a cohesive and harmonious collection.
The monochrome looks exuded an aura of effortless elegance. The garments were impeccably tailored, featuring loose-fitting trousers, wide shorts, and unstructured, collarless jackets. Some jackets even featured shortened sleeves, adding an unconventional touch. Airy silk shirts contributed to the fluidity of the collection, while clean-edged leather jackets offered an incredibly lightweight feel. Sartori aimed to eliminate any excess, wholeheartedly embracing the principle of “less is more.” Every detail was meticulously considered, from discreet patch pockets to hidden press studs and zippers. Even trousers were designed with seamlessly integrated belts.
Sartori described the collection as “conceptual in spirit but simple in design.” Extensive research was conducted on the treatment of materials, with 70% of the collection made from linen produced within Zegna’s own supply chain. The leather used was also natural, vegetable-tanned, and lined with linen, eschewing the use of adhesives or glues. Sartori emphasized that today’s linen is markedly different from its past iterations, as it can now be fully traced.
In contrast to Zegna’s refined aesthetic, Dhruv Kapoor presented a lively and colorful collection. Kapoor’s signature style incorporates embroidery, prints, and whimsical slogans. This season, he cleverly blended these elements with everyday basics. The collection showcased a range of striking pieces, such as a maxi tuxedo jacket adorned with silver rod embroidery and a sweatshirt embellished with large flowers and pearls through embroidery.
Kapoor aimed to strike a balance between everyday and glamorous attire. Many of his embellishments and pieces can be removed or styled in versatile ways. For instance, a pleated skirt can be detached from a pair of trousers, and cargos can be transformed into shorts with the use of zips. The collection also featured a mix of proportions, allowing for the combination of loose and fitted garments within a single look.
While Kapoor reduced the use of prints compared to his previous collections, they still remained prominent in his designs. From pop art-inspired patterns to floral and surrealist motifs, the collection offered a plethora of choices. Embroidery continued to be a focal point for Kapoor, as he highlighted the traditional craft from his home country. His embroidered pieces have remained popular among customers.
The theme of fantasy, dreams, and emotions permeated Kapoor’s collection for the season. This theme was evident in the final looks, which included a sequined suit in shades of red and mauve, as well as a vibrant red maxi coat with a crystal-studded black collar.
Zegna and Dhruv Kapoor provided a fitting conclusion to Milan Fashion Week, exhibiting their unique visions and mastery of craftsmanship. Zegna’s celebration of linen and nature, combined with Kapoor’s colorful and embellished collection, made a lasting impression on the fashion industry. As another successful Fashion Week draws to a close, industry insiders eagerly anticipate the next wave of creativity and innovation in the world of fashion.
Useful links:
1. Linen Trend 2021
2. The Business of Fashion – Daily Digest
