The traditionally male-dominated fashion industry is experiencing a breakthrough, as women designers are breaking through the “fabric ceiling” and making their mark in men’s fashion. While top positions in fashion houses are still predominantly held by men, the recent men’s fashion week in Paris showcased a growing number of talented women designers focusing on menswear.
The highly anticipated show by Grace Wales Bonner, held in a prestigious hotel in Place Vendome, marked her first physical show in Paris. Known for her literary references and commitment to highlighting black and minority artists, Wales Bonner is considered a frontrunner to succeed the late Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. When asked about her choice to design menswear, Wales Bonner mentioned that she saw more room for expression in this sector, as menswear can sometimes be conservative. Her collection received praise for its impeccable tailoring and charming details.
Bode, a notable designer known for her handcrafted clothes made from recycled materials, also made her return to Paris for the first time since the pandemic. She was named the menswear designer of the year at the CFDA Awards in 2022. France’s Marine Serre, who prioritizes sustainability in her brand, and Britain’s Bianca Saunders, who sees menswear as a canvas for exploration, also showcased their designs during men’s fashion week.
What stands out about these women designers making waves in menswear is that they are not limited to the younger generation. Experienced designers like Gabriela Hearst and Isabel Marant have recently launched their own menswear lines, adding a fresh perspective to the industry. Pierre Hardy, Hermes shoe designer, believes that women designers bring a more neutral and external perspective, free from cliches. Alice Feillard, a menswear buying director at Galeries Lafayette, agrees and highlights that women designers have a keen eye for reality and practicality.
Even up-and-coming designers are leaving their mark. Jeanne Friot from France presented a flamboyant, bright-red collection in Paris, bringing her unique perspective as a woman designer and a lesbian. Friot believes that men should have more options in their wardrobes, including pieces that are more feminine and fun.
The inclusion of women in the realm of men’s fashion reflects progress and a shift towards more diversity and creativity in the industry. As these talented women continue to make their mark, the future of menswear looks brighter than ever.
Useful links:
– Vogue UK – Women Breaking the Men’s Fashion Glass Ceiling
– Business of Fashion – Women Designers Are Breaking Through in Menswear
