Watchmakers at this year’s Geneva watch fair are pushing the boundaries of materials and technology to cater to a new generation of luxury watch buyers. H. Moser, a niche brand, showcased a concept watch with a Vantablack dial, a coating that absorbs almost all light and creates the illusion of a black hole. The material, made of carbon nanotubes, is considered the darkest pigment in the world. This demonstration by H. Moser’s CEO, Edouard Meylan, offers a glimpse into the future of materials in the watch industry.
Luxury consumers are currently drawn to the color black, seeking futuristic materials combined with skilled craftsmanship. Vincent Gregoire, the head of men’s fashion and accessories at Parisian fashion consultancy NellyRodi, compares this preference to the artistic style of Anish Kapoor, a renowned sculptor known for his use of Vantablack. Buyers are seeking beauty, hyper-luxury, and technology in handcrafted pieces.
There is a notable shift in the luxury watch market as a new generation of luxury lovers emerges. This generation, comprised of “agitators,” is interested in street culture, sustainability, and using their purchasing power for activist actions. To meet this demand, luxury watch brands are incorporating innovative and sustainable practices into their timepieces.
One example of this is Oris, which showcased at the fair how it recycles plastic waste to create multi-colored marble-like material for clock faces. Tag Heuer, owned by LVMH, also broke an industry taboo by using lab-grown diamonds in one of its flagship models. The brand wanted to explore the new technology’s ability to create uniquely shaped stones and provide a new, light-catching texture on the dial. Lab-grown diamonds are seen as a way to embrace new possibilities while maintaining high-end luxury.
Another brand making strides in materials and technology is Cartier, owned by Richemont. With the use of 3D printing, Cartier created the “Coussin” collection, featuring a casing that is pliable and returns to its original shape like a cushion. This demonstrates Cartier’s foray into new technologies while still incorporating natural diamonds.
In conclusion, the watch industry is embracing new materials and technologies in order to captivate a younger generation of luxury watch enthusiasts. From Vantablack dials to lab-grown diamonds and sustainable materials, watchmakers are pushing boundaries and offering innovative options to appeal to a changing market.
