In a remarkable parallel, Virgil Abloh’s rise in the fashion world mirrors that of Patrick Kelly in the 1980s. Both came from the urban black middle class in the United States and achieved international success and recognition in Paris. Abloh can also be compared to Karl Lagerfeld for his abundance of talent, creativity, and ability to tap into the spirit of the times. However, Abloh’s impact goes beyond fashion and reaches into contemporary culture.
Now, the question arises: who will succeed Virgil Abloh? LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that now controls both Louis Vuitton and Off-White, faces the challenge of finding a successor for Abloh at both brands. For Off-White, the logical choice would be to continue Abloh’s creative vision since he was the founder and artistic director of the brand. However, for Louis Vuitton, there are more options available, ranging from maintaining continuity to introducing disruptive changes. Whatever the decision, it will carry significant symbolism considering Abloh’s legacy and influence.
LVMH handled the Miami fashion show, which took place after Abloh’s passing, with humanity and sincerity, turning it into a powerful tribute to the late designer. Now, the group must strive to keep the inclusive and humanistic creative spirit ignited by Abloh alive within the luxury industry.
Abloh, who famously declared, “I am not a designer,” was not just a fashion visionary. He was a transcultural pioneer, a multifaceted artist, and an aspirational icon. As the artistic director of Off-White and Louis Vuitton, he revolutionized luxury menswear by embracing diversity and inclusivity. His innovative approach combined skateboarding and streetwear with high-end fashion, and he shattered cultural barriers through collaborations with brands such as Evian and Ikea, as well as exclusive partnerships with Baccarat and Mercedes Maybach. One of his most iconic projects was “The Ten,” a collaboration between Off-White and Nike.
Abloh’s influence extends far beyond fashion. He has left an indelible mark on contemporary design and visual culture through his work on album packaging, sneakers, and collaborative projects with artists like Takashi Murakami. His prolix and multidisciplinary approach, along with his famous “3% theory,” allowed him to create new, familiar yet completely original designs. Abloh saw fashion as a broad canvas to merge various artistic disciplines that he was passionate about, following in the footsteps of Marcel Duchamp.
As an aspirational icon, Abloh always aimed to connect with and inspire young people. His motto, “everything I do is for the version of myself at 17 years old,” demonstrates his desire for transmission and contribution to education. He not only garnered deep enthusiasm among young people but also actively sought to support and inspire them. His “I Support Young Black Businesses” t-shirt from the Off-White Fall/Winter 2020 collection embodies this commitment. Abloh’s activism also translated into philanthropic initiatives, such as the “Post-Modern” Scholarship Fund, which raised one million dollars to support the education of black students in the United States.
Bernard Arnault, the CEO of LVMH, hailed Abloh as a genius creator, visionary, and a man with great wisdom and a beautiful soul. While many admirers continue his cultural legacy, LVMH has the responsibility to curate and preserve his creative and philanthropic work.
Overall, Virgil Abloh’s impact stretches beyond the fashion industry, leaving an indelible mark on contemporary culture. His legacy will forever shape the way we perceive and appreciate art, design, and inclusivity in the luxury world.
Useful links:
– https://www.nytimes.com/2021/11/29/fashion/virgil-abloh-louis-vuitton-legacy.html
– https://www.vogue.com/article/virgil-abloh-legacy-louis-vuitton-off-white
