Vaquera, the New York-based label founded by Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee in 2013, recently made their second appearance at Paris Fashion Week. The brand’s latest collection paid tribute to their signature style and American heritage by presenting avant-garde reinterpretations of classic American symbols. One of the standout pieces from the collection was a long-tailed dress made entirely from scraps of American flags, cleverly transforming the stripes and stars into a unique print.
Known for their subversive designs, Vaquera showcased a range of marketable garments as well as bold and daring pieces during their show. The collection opened with a white dress paired with a fabric headdress and denim shorts, which drew inspiration from DiCaprio’s mother’s wedding dress. The runway also featured baroque-style metallic tops and skirts, along with a babydoll mini dress, adding variety to the collection.
Held at the 3537 space in Paris, Vaquera’s show was accompanied by loud electronic music, creating a captivating rave-like atmosphere. The brand closed the first day of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, leaving a lasting impression with their irreverent and captivating designs that pushed boundaries.
Another label embracing a subversive style at Paris Fashion Week was Pressiat, a brand launched in 2020 by designer Vincent Garnier Pressiat. The brand’s spring/summer 2023 collection, titled “Suspicious,” drew inspiration from old Hollywood glamour, featuring hairstyles reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe and tight dresses with exaggerated shoulder pads. The show took place at the Quartier Général space in Paris.
Pressiat’s collection showcased a diverse range of looks, from a black long-sleeved dress paired with patent leather boots to slim-cut suits and knitted ponchos with rips. Corsetry-inspired looks and lingerie-inspired designs added a touch of sensuality to the collection, while nineties references gave a nostalgic yet contemporary aesthetic.
Having gained experience working for renowned fashion houses like Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent, and Balmain, Pressiat decided to launch his own brand after the pandemic-induced pause. He aims to “dream big” and expand his product range to include home decor. The collection is currently manufactured in France and Tunisia, with prices for the brand’s more elaborate pieces reaching up to 13,000 euros.
Pressiat’s designs have already garnered attention from celebrities like Megan Thee Stallion, Charlotte Rampling, and model Alton Levon Mason, further solidifying the brand’s reputation within the fashion industry. With a focus on incorporating couture elements and maintaining a high-end ready-to-wear positioning, Pressiat’s vision has resonated with both fashion insiders and celebrities alike.
Both Vaquera and Pressiat brought their unique perspectives to Paris Fashion Week, showcasing their subversive and avant-garde designs. Their collections not only celebrated their respective brand aesthetics but also highlighted the rich heritage and cultural influence that define contemporary fashion. With their bold and daring creations, these labels left a lasting impact on the fashion world.
Useful Links:
1. Vaquera on Vogue Runway
2. Pressiat Official Website
