Valentino mesmerized the city of Rome once again with its awe-inspiring haute couture collection. After a memorable visit to Venice last year, the luxury fashion house, owned by the Qatari investment fund Mayhoola, returned to its roots in the fashion capital. The Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection, titled ‘The Beginning,’ was unveiled at the Spanish Steps and Piazza Mignanelli, the historic home of Valentino. A remarkable showcase of 102 stunning looks took place, leaving the audience in awe.
The atmosphere in Piazza di Spagna was electric as a small crowd eagerly gathered behind barriers, while fortunate individuals secured seats against the windows of surrounding buildings. Among the notable attendees was American actress Anne Hathaway, who sat alongside Giancarlo Giammetti, a partner and close friend of Valentino Garavani. Unfortunately, Valentino himself was unable to attend. Representatives from major fashion associations and 120 students from various fashion schools also graced the event.
The anticipation reached its peak as the first model descended the golden staircase, bathed in the late afternoon sun. She gracefully walked down the 137 steps of the baroque monument, leading to a long catwalk in Piazza Mignanelli, ultimately reaching the headquarters of the fashion house. This symbolic journey represented “where it all began.” The model wore a mini cocoon dress adorned with giant red roses in taffeta, paying homage to Valentino’s iconic Fiesta dress from 1959. This masterpiece set the tone for the rest of the show.
The collection showcased an array of stunning designs, including ruffled blouses made of delicate gazar silk, voluminous faille and organza skirts, one of which was beautifully embroidered with turquoise feathers. Flowing shirt dresses made of crepe fabric with feather-trimmed puffed sleeves, snug-fitting silk cady sheath dresses, and dresses with thin straps covered entirely in fine ostrich feathers contributed to the ethereal ambiance. Billowing chiffon voile dresses danced with the wind, creating a mesmerizing spectacle.
The collection exuded a sense of lightness, further enhanced by the graceful Ponentino wind, gently lifting the trains of the garments. Feathers delicately danced at ankle height, while wide headdresses adorned with clouds of feathers added a touch of drama. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli explained, “I wanted to present a different interpretation of Valentino’s romanticism, one with more lightness. In this collection, everything is connected to movement.”
Piccioli also reflected on his own journey, from attending Valentino shows as a young boy in Rome to eventually joining the brand as an accessories designer. He reminisced, “I felt like I was having a conversation with Valentino. An ideal conversation, symbolizing a new beginning.” Throughout the collection, references to the brand’s signature codes, such as roses, were evident. Whether they appeared as giant three-dimensional accents on tops and jackets or delicate adornments, the roses embodied the essence of Valentino.
Wide bows and ribbons wrapped around waists, including a coat made entirely of contrasting braided ribbons. The iconic Valentino red, representing the brand, made appearances throughout the show. Piccioli expanded the color palette to include deep, vibrant shades such as emerald, mint, jade green, neon pink, burgundy, plum red, purple, and lime green, offering monochromatic looks and unexpected color combinations.
The models exuded an aura of the party coming to an end, wearing fishnet stockings paired with rhinestone-studded evening gowns or pantsuits adorned with micro sequins. British singer Labrinth added to the ambiance with a live musical accompaniment. Among the crowd, casually dressed gentlemen could be spotted wearing loose-fitting pants and simple tank tops, complemented by luxurious cashmere coats and glamorous long leather gloves.
In a powerful statement against prejudice and homophobia, Valentino embraced inclusivity by featuring a diverse range of models from various minority groups. The collection showcased a blend of menswear and womenswear on models of different proportions and ages, blurring conventional gender boundaries. This political message aimed to promote acceptance and freedom of expression.
Piccioli passionately articulated his vision, stating, “Body shapes put this issue in the spotlight. Everyone can finally be free to express themselves as they are.” By choosing the historical Roman monument as the backdrop for this significant unveiling, Piccioli aimed to underscore this message and showcase a world that is evolving.
As the show concluded, Piccioli graciously stood alongside his entire atelier team, acknowledging their hard work and dedication with rounds of lively applause. Valentino’s haute couture collection in Rome was truly a feast for the eyes, encapsulating the brand’s legacy of elegance, craftsmanship, and innovation.
Useful links:
Valentino Official Website
Valentino Fall 2022 Couture Collection on Vogue
