The war in Ukraine has not only brought economic struggles and survival challenges for fashion designers in the country but has also forced them to confront deep philosophical questions about the significance and value of clothing in a nation under siege. Despite these obstacles, two Ukrainian designers, Litkovska and Anna October, have defied the odds and proudly displayed their collections in Paris, showcasing the resilience and talent of Ukrainian craftsmanship.
Having previously participated in Paris Fashion Week in February, Litkovska became the ambassador for Ukrainian design during an emotional presentation at the Tranoï trade show. In a symbolic act of protest and solidarity, she relocated her atelier from Kiev to Paris and unveiled her collection during the latest edition of fashion week. The show was stripped down and accessible to the public, with models strolling through the Tuileries Gardens and then taking their places on a mesmerizing merry-go-round. The event concluded with passionate chants of “Slava Ucraini” (Glory to Ukraine) and a tearful Litkovska draped in the Ukrainian flag. The collection itself featured meticulously crafted two-piece menswear-inspired ensembles, crochet hoods, detailed embroidery, fringed finishes, and deconstructed denim, all made using traditional Ukrainian craftsmanship techniques. Litkovska’s aim was to champion and honor the significance of craftsmanship and tradition in Ukrainian fashion.
Similarly, Anna October marked her debut at Paris Fashion Week with a presentation held in the former atelier of Gustave Eiffel, nestled at the foot of the iconic Eiffel Tower. The brand created a bucolic and convivial atmosphere, inviting models and guests to interact during a mid-afternoon picnic in the garden. October’s creations are focused on fashioning stunning textures and silhouettes that accentuate the female form, emphasizing lightness and airiness as expressions of femininity. Inspirations for her spring collection were drawn from gardens and the works of author Vita Sackville-West, incorporating artisanal techniques like knitting and crochet. Delicate dresses, meticulously constructed using these techniques, were inspired by patterns discovered in vintage markets and the renowned Ukrainian museum, Ivan Honchar. The collection boasted a dreamy pastel color palette, silky fabrics, and subtle floral references. Drapery made from braided fabrics—a symbol of femininity in Ukraine—was also prominently featured. October emphasized the importance of safeguarding craftsmanship and traditional techniques, seamlessly fusing rustic charm with urban sophistication.
Both Litkovska and Anna October’s collections stand as powerful testaments to the strength and determination of Ukrainian fashion designers in the face of adversity. These designers use their creations as a means of defiance, showcasing their steadfast commitment to preserving Ukrainian craftsmanship and highlighting the beauty and authenticity within their work. Despite the challenges brought by war, they persist in their pursuit of creativity and innovation, bringing an essence of Ukrainian culture and artistry to the worldwide fashion stage.
Useful Links:
1. Caravanserai: Ukrainian Craftsmanship and Fashion platform
2. Ukrainian Fashion Week Official Website
