Now let’s take a deeper dive into the recent fashion events and explore the trends and data that have emerged. Industry experts and analysts have been closely studying the evolution of physical shows, inclusivity, and the shows that have captured the most attention. In this article, we will examine the highlights of Haute Couture and Men’s Fashion Weeks based on the available data and insights.
One significant trend to discuss is the increase in the number of menswear shows during the recent fashion weeks. The Fall/Winter 2022 season witnessed a total of 47 physical fashion shows, compared to the 43 shows in the previous Spring/Summer 2022 season. Interestingly, 22 of these shows featured both menswear and womenswear, even though they were held during the men’s weeks. This suggests a growing emphasis on showcasing both collections together. In Paris alone, there were 76 brands registered in the official calendar, including 17 physical fashion shows, 29 in-person presentations, and 30 digital-only events. Globally, Paris, London, and Milan collectively hosted a hundred shows, reaffirming their status as the fashion capitals of the world.
According to the fashion search engine Tagwalk, the most demanded brand on their platform during the period of January 14 to 27 was Kenzo. Kenzo’s popularity surged thanks to the debut of the brand’s new Japanese designer, Nigo, and the presentation of his first collection. The event, held in the Parisian Galerie Vivienne, generated widespread media and social media attention, particularly due to the controversial presence of Kanye West and his new girlfriend Julia Fox. Following closely behind, Louis Vuitton secured the second position in the rankings with an emotional show featuring Virgil Abloh’s final collection. The late Abloh, who passed away in November, left a lasting impact on the industry with his poignant and powerful last presentation.
Casting choices also played a significant role in the fashion weeks. One notable example was Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ creative duo securing the third spot in the rankings. The inclusion of iconic actors Jeff Goldblum and Kyle MacLachlan in their Milan fashion show garnered attention and praise. In particular, a video of Kyle MacLachlan strutting down the runway, posted on Prada’s social media, garnered an impressive 260,000 views. Moreover, there was a noticeable trend of including older models in men’s fashion shows. Prada featured seven senior models, while Y/Project and Yohji Yamamoto incorporated three and five older models, respectively. Ami, a French brand, also joined the inclusivity initiative by inviting actresses Isabelle Adjani, Rebecca Dayan, and Laetitia Casta to walk the runway.
Shifting focus to Haute Couture, the rankings for the Spring/Summer 2022 collections presented in Paris highlighted the dominance of Christian Dior, Chanel, and Valentino. These three brands accounted for a significant percentage of the searches conducted during that period. However, Schiaparelli’s fourth-place position signaled the growing interest in Daniel Roseberry’s unique Dadaist collections. Jean Paul Gaultier also secured a spot in the rankings, thanks to his collaborations with other designers. Glenn Martens, for his collaboration with Gaultier and his own Y/Project show, garnered extensive praise from the press and influencers.
Promoting inclusivity was another key aspect of these fashion weeks. In Valentino’s Haute Couture show, significant strides were made by featuring a diverse cast of models, including men and older women. This representation aimed to reflect the richness and diversity of the contemporary world, promoting an idea of beauty that is not limited to narrow standards. The makeup and accessories also mirrored this renewed aesthetic, contributing to the overall inclusivity message.
Turning to menswear trends, the French fashion trend forecaster Heuritech identified the emergence of the “New Age explorer” style. Brands like Hermès, Brunello Cucinelli, and Isabel Marant fused vintage outdoor references with a futuristic vision of sportswear. Additionally, bright colors and absurd humor took center stage in brands like Loewe and Bluemarble, targeting a younger audience. Classic elements of masculinity, including the dandy style, fur, leather, turtlenecks, and layering, also made their mark in collections from Casablanca, Ernest W. Baker, Zegna, and Erdem. However, these collections also explored feminine elements, particularly in accessories, showcasing a blurring of gender boundaries.
Analyzing consumer trends, Tagwalk data indicated a rise in searches for faux fur coats and a decline in pinstriped looks compared to the previous season. Ski-inspired looks and the “preppy” style were also on the rise, reflecting a desire for both practical and timeless fashion. Comfortable fashion, represented by leisurewear looks, continued to dominate the catwalks. Surprisingly, even Birkenstock and Crocs shoes made an appearance in high-end shows like Dior Men and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, signaling the growing acceptance of casual footwear in luxury fashion.
The representation of bodies on the runway proved to be another significant trend. Some designers, such as Rick Owens and Y/Project, showcased looks that either emphasized bare or fully covered bodies. Trompe l’oeil prints of the naked human body were featured in Rick Owens and Loewe’s shows, while the balaclava emerged as a popular accessory in 20 shows, adding an element of mystery and edge. Additionally, the beret made a modest return, appearing in five fashion shows, giving a nod to classic French style.
In conclusion, the analysis of data and key trends from the recent Haute Couture and Men’s Fashion Weeks provides valuable insights into the ever-evolving fashion industry. Inclusivity, casting choices, and the exploration of diverse themes and styles are all crucial factors shaping the future of fashion. As we eagerly anticipate the upcoming shows, it will be fascinating to observe how these trends continue to unfold and influence the industry.
Useful links:
1. Business of Fashion – New Age Explorer Leads Men’s Fashion Trends
2. Vogue – Best Street Style Looks from London Fashion Week Fall 2022
