Too many things to too many people: The Confusing Collection of Givenchy
When it comes to staging a big fashion show in Paris, it is crucial to have a clear vision and purpose. Unfortunately, Givenchy’s latest collection left many feeling puzzled and uncertain. While undeniably creative, the collection seemed to lack coherence and a clear direction.
The show began with great anticipation, as models walked down an all-white catwalk inside a massive black box behind Les Invalides. The presence of K-Pop stars and minor influencers added to the excitement, but as the collection unfolded, confusion set in. Matthew Williams, the designer behind Givenchy, showcased his undeniable talent through impeccable suits and jackets. The sharp shoulders, nipped waists, and single buttons demonstrated his attention to detail. The finale featured stunning peak lapel tuxedos, exuding a glamorous old Hollywood vibe.
Moreover, Williams presented a range of beautiful coats, from sophisticated herringbone styles to cozy cashmere double-breasted looks. Faux fur coats brought a touch of luxury reminiscent of a Texan oil magnate who had just hit the jackpot. The color palette, including greys, beiges, anthracite, and deep purple, added allure to the collection. However, the pairing of these elegant coats with leather shorts, zips, and boots felt mismatched. The addition of faded hoodies, plaid grunge shirts, and chunky knits weighed down the ensembles.
Williams’ interpretation of sartorial streetwear was also inconsistent. While his faded leather wide-leg pants paired with thick tractor tire-soled boots were commendable, their combination with oversized shorts, hoodies, and woolen tanks felt overwhelming. It was hard to understand why one would invest in luxurious clothes from Givenchy only to resemble an unemployed bike messenger from New York.
Givenchy has had remarkable designers in its lineage, with each contributing their unique fashion visions to the brand’s identity. However, this rich history has resulted in a somewhat confused and disjointed brand image. After 27 years since Hubert de Givenchy’s retirement, it has become increasingly challenging to discern Givenchy’s true essence.
In this collection, the influence of Riccardo Tisci, who had a lengthy tenure at Givenchy, was evident. However, the overall result was an unbalanced blend of streetwear, sex appeal, sullen styling, and artificial sophistication. It fell short of capturing the elegant and refined aesthetic established by Hubert de Givenchy.
As Givenchy moves forward, it is essential for the brand to define its own identity and solidify its DNA within the fashion industry. By doing so, Givenchy can create collections that resonate with a broader audience while staying true to its roots. Only then will Givenchy be able to please the diverse range of people it aims to inspire.
Useful links:
1. Givenchy Official Website
2. Givenchy Fashion Shows on Vogue
