In a momentous passing of the torch, Tom Ford, the iconic fashion designer, has officially handed over the reins to his design director and successor, Peter Hawkings. Although Ford was not physically present at the recent show in Milan, his essence was palpable in every aspect of the event. Hawkings transformed the Palazzo del Ghiaccio into a pulsating nightclub, exuding energy and setting the stage for a truly unforgettable display.
Staying true to the renowned Tom Ford aesthetic, Hawkings showcased a menswear collection that epitomized luxury and sophistication. With its lean silhouette, tight sleeves, and statement lapels, the garments were a testament to the brand’s reputation. However, it was Hawkings’ foray into womenswear that left everyone holding their breath. The success of Tom Ford’s business, for which Estée Lauder and other companies had made substantial investments, hinged on the brand’s ability to maintain its stellar reputation in women’s fashion.
Surprisingly, Hawkings proved to be more than capable in the realm of womenswear. Taking inspiration from Ford’s achievements at Gucci, he recreated some of the brand’s most iconic pieces, such as the red velvet tuxedo with satin piping and Ford’s interpretation of the Halston dress. What set Hawkings apart was his confidence and effortless style, a departure from Ford’s later years when he seemed to be constantly striving for recognition.
The collection commenced with a display of edgy elegance in all-black, featuring alligator trench coats paired with patent leather thigh boots, cashmere leotards with daring buttons, and slinky snakeskin suits with mini skirts. Hawkings then injected a burst of vibrant sherbet hues, including orange safari mini cocktails, turquoise tuxedos, and pink pants suits. Each look was accessorized with burnished gold bracelets, gold chained slingbacks, and T clasp clutches.
While it may not have come as a surprise, the inclusion of sunglasses worn by every model added a touch of intrigue to the show. Sunglasses have been a successful licensing venture for Tom Ford, and with Hawkings continuing this trend, it became evident that he deeply understood the brand’s DNA.
Backed by a pulsating soundtrack featuring Madonna and Bjork, Hawkings concluded the show with an all-gold finale. The applause thundered as he took his bow, embracing his wife Whitney, whom he met during his time at Gucci. Reflecting on his experience, Hawkings expressed his enthusiasm and gratitude: “It’s been a brilliant experience and one I have been preparing for my whole life… What’s really important to me is that the Tom Ford woman comes closer to the man. I think there was a disconnect before, which had to do with Tom being in LA. Now it’s under one roof, that will change.” Exuding confidence and excitement, Hawkings donned an all-white suit and sunglasses, signaling a bright future ahead.
This collection and show proved to be a resounding triumph for Tom Ford, solidifying the brand’s depth and enduring appeal. Interestingly, Hawkings made his debut on the same night as Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci. Considering Gucci’s parent company, Kering, aims to return to a more classical style after Alessandro Michele’s exuberant reign, the decision to hire Hawkings could prove to be a wise one. His performance undeniably left a lasting impression.
The executives from Estée Lauder, who made a substantial investment in Tom Ford’s business, and Gildo Zegna, whose fashion group acquired a 30-year Tom Ford fashion license, left the show visibly satisfied. This display was not only a testament to Hawkings’ capabilities but also a testament to his strategic vision. As Gildo exclaimed, “Red carpet and real life!”, the room was abuzz with excitement, reaffirming the belief that Tom Ford’s legacy lives on and continues to flourish.
Useful links:
– Vogue: Tom Ford Fall 2021 Menswear
– Business of Fashion: Menswear Week’s Take and Leave Highlights
