The fashion season continues with a showcase of powerful collections by designers Junya Watanabe and Undercover in Tokyo. Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection pays homage to rock legends, featuring iconic T-shirts from bands like The Who and Queen, album covers from David Bowie, and concert tour posters from Kiss and The Rolling Stones. These elements are intricately incorporated into various garments, including Scottish punk rocker kilts and Johnny Rotten Restoration ensembles. The collection also combines silk Roman prints, cable wools, and chinoiserie silks in oversized flight jackets, plaid punky worker attire, and undertaker outfits. Watanabe even surprises with an incorporation of Aerosmith into a Nordic après-ski sweater, creating a show reminiscent of a punk revival concert.
The models in Watanabe’s show sport gothic-print hairstyles in vibrant colors, spiked hair reminiscent of Keith Flint from Prodigy, and safety-pin chains around their necks. They confidently strut in high-top shoes that reach halfway up their shins. Despite the challenges presented by the pandemic, Watanabe continues to forge ahead, utilizing elements from the past to evoke a rebellious future. The show takes place in a club-like atmosphere with a stage set up for a rock band, although there are no live musicians. Instead, tracks by the mentioned bands blast from the speakers, adding the energy and atmosphere of a live concert.
Watanabe’s photos, captured just a week ago, were made available on Friday. On the same day, Jun Takahashi of Undercover presented his latest collection as part of the predominantly virtual Japan Fashion Week, supported by Japanese ecommerce giant Rakuten. Takahashi aimed to convey the excitement and power of a live show, considering that the event was held in Tokyo. The collection begins with 10 pairs of pajamas designed for both men and women, featuring Maoist chambray jackets and leather cardigans. Other looks highlight knee-length Nordic sweaters in a co-ed show.
Known for his unpredictable and revolutionary shifts in creative direction, Takahashi takes the collection from pajamas to a sophisticated Marvel comic theme, showcasing supervillains in high-tech trenches paired with matching masks, leggings, and Vietnam vet-style boots. The collection then smoothly transitions back to a more poetic aesthetic by displaying elegant top coats adorned with spidery sketches of young men. Takahashi’s talent for combining various elements is evident in this collection, as he blends matelassé nylon, hoodies, and faux shearlings to create daring outfits that give his models a modern urban gunslinger appearance.
Undoubtedly one of the most impactful shows of this never-ending fashion season, Undercover’s collection culminates in a finale that is worthy of couture status. Fire engine red puffer jackets take center stage, some featuring fabric rose collars, while others display ecstatic Renaissance religious prints. These statement pieces are artfully paired with perfectly tailored pants and chaps. The show concludes with live ballerinas and figurines dressed as tragic fashion dolls, showcasing ribbed leggings, regal puffers, and flight jackets adorned with red rose prints.
At 51 years old, Jun Takahashi is arguably the most influential designer in the second wave of Japanese designers. Interestingly, his early inspiration was drawn from Vivienne Westwood, aligning with Watanabe’s theme. For the past 16 years, Undercover has presented its collections in Paris, the city of haute couture. This particular collection may be Takahashi’s most couture-like one yet, with intricate cutting, delicate construction, and artful draping. Overall, it is a fashion tour de force that showcases Takahashi’s vivid imagination and fertile fashion mind.
Useful links:
1. Vogue – Junya Watanabe Collaborates with Aerosmith for Punk Revival
2. Business of Fashion – Junya Watanabe and Undercover Bring In-Person Shows to Virtual Tokyo Fashion Week
