The luxury industry is facing major challenges when it comes to ethical issues and sustainability. Historically, luxury has been associated with excessive consumption and a disregard for utility and necessity. However, there is a growing awareness within the industry that these practices are no longer acceptable. This article explores the compatibility of luxury with a more ethical and sustainable approach.
One could argue that luxury is already aligned with the idea of scarcity, as the dream of luxury thrives on the perception of limited availability. Global threats, such as the recent Covid-19 pandemic, have further highlighted the scarcity of goods and resources. This has led to an increase in solidarity initiatives, with varying degrees of success. However, there is also a deeper shift happening within the luxury industry, moving it away from purely materialistic and ostentatious displays towards a more sensitive and intangible approach.
One aspect of this shift is the rise of storytelling by major fashion houses, who are using brand purpose to convey a deeper meaning behind their products. Craftsmanship and heritage are also being emphasized, with luxury brands positioning themselves as socio-cultural actors rather than purely commercial entities. The growing interest in intangible forms of luxury, such as fragrances that evoke unconventional concepts or experiences, challenges our traditional perception of luxury and pushes the boundaries of contemporary taste.
Luxury brands are also using experiential marketing techniques to re-engage consumers and create a sense of enchantment. This holistic approach, centered around novelty, surprise, and knowledge acquisition, aligns with the original meaning of luxury – deviating from what is expected and opening up to imagination. The concept of authenticity has also evolved, with less emphasis on material conformity and craftsmanship and more focus on the truthfulness of the brand experience.
This shift towards a new form of luxury has implications for transparency and ethical sourcing. Many luxury brands are now actively exploring fair trade and sustainable materials. Initiatives such as Burberry’s Maker’s House, which invites the public to participate in the creative process, or the Fondazione Prada’s commitment to revitalizing urban communities, demonstrate a broader commitment to social and environmental responsibility.
Despite concerns about the viability of these brand postures in emerging markets, cultural anthropologists argue that the values associated with this new form of luxury – intensity, slow temporality, experiential fullness – are already embedded in Asian cultural fundamentals. Luxury brands such as Shan Xia and Qeelin showcase these values in their collections and advertising.
In conclusion, the luxury industry is undergoing a transformation towards a more ethical and sustainable approach. While complete dematerialization and radical conceptualization may not be feasible, luxury can still incorporate the ideals of the “good” by finding a balance between the material and the aesthetic, and by embracing the tension between the sensitive and the critical. This requires a shift in perception and an invitation to reflection and awareness, ensuring that contemporary luxury remains relevant and meaningful.
References:
1. Celaschi, F., Cappellieri, A., Vasile, A., Lusso versus design. Italian design, beni culturali e luxury system: alto di gamma & cultura di progetto, Milano, Franco Angeli, 2007.
2. Michaud, Y., Le nouveau luxe: Expériences, arrogance, authenticité, Paris, Stock, 2013.
3. Montani, P., Tecnologie della sensibilità. Estetica e immaginazione interattiva, Milan, Raffaello Cortina, 2014.
4. Mathieu, P., Monneyron, F., L’imaginaire du luxe, Paris, Imago, 2015.
Useful links:
– [Link 1: Example sustainability initiative in the luxury industry](insert link here)
– [Link 2: Ethical sourcing practices in luxury brands](insert link here)
