Nowadays, the fashion industry is witnessing a significant transformation, moving away from the era of larger-than-life designers towards a new trend of low-profile individuals. The days of iconic figures like John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Karl Lagerfeld dominating the fashion world with their flamboyant personalities are long gone. In today’s industry, discretion and subtlety are what truly sell.
The recent troubles faced by Balenciaga have shed light on the potential risks associated with having a provocative figurehead. Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, known for his edgy approach and celebrity connections, undeniably catapulted the brand into the spotlight. However, his controversial style and association with rapper Kanye West have suddenly become liabilities. The brand’s recent advertisement controversy, which hinted at child abuse, further emphasized the dangers of having a provocative figurehead.
Balenciaga is not the only brand reevaluating the role of a big-name designer. Louis Vuitton has yet to find a replacement for Virgil Abloh, who tragically passed away last year, leaving the responsibility on his studio. Similarly, Gucci, another major fashion powerhouse, is currently operating without a flamboyant designer since the departure of Alessandro Michele. While Michele initially transformed the Italian brand successfully, it eventually lost its appeal. As a result, Gucci is now exploring new creative directions while carefully considering its options.
Other renowned fashion houses, including Hermes, Chanel, and Dior, are embracing designers who prefer to stay away from the limelight. They have come to understand that brand identity is no longer solely dependent on the designer but rather on the entire creative process. Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski and Veronique Nichanian at Hermes, as well as Virginie Viard at Chanel, may be relatively unknown outside the fashion industry, but they work diligently behind the scenes to bring the brands’ visions to life.
Amidst this shifting landscape, Demna Gvasalia stands out as an outlier. The 41-year-old Georgian designer has been recognized by Time as one of the 100 most influential people, and his muse, Kim Kardashian, has undoubtedly helped him gain significant attention. However, his constant provocative approach, such as showcasing $1,800 garbage bags, has raised eyebrows. Furthermore, his association with Kanye West, who recently made anti-Semitic remarks, has significantly damaged the brand’s reputation. Even though Demna swiftly distanced himself from Kanye, the repercussions cannot be ignored.
The move away from big-name designers is often attributed to John Galliano’s removal from Dior in 2011 following his anti-Semitic outburst. Since then, luxury houses have started searching for more discreet artistic directors. Benjamin Simmenauer, a professor at the French Fashion Institute, explains that as luxury becomes more accessible, larger fashion houses are looking for artistic directors who can maintain a level of exclusivity and discretion.
Nevertheless, it is crucial to find the right balance. Gucci’s baroque and unconventional shows under Alessandro Michele’s direction certainly garnered attention but did not necessarily translate into sales. There is a growing demand for more wearable and timeless designs that can appeal to a broader audience. However, a brand like Gucci, known for pushing boundaries and challenging norms, must also maintain an element of transgression to stay relevant. Fashion should entertain and provoke, striking a delicate balance between seduction and a touch of madness.
To conclude, the fashion industry is currently experiencing a shift towards low-profile designers. The days of extravagant personalities dominating the industry are fading, as brands place a greater emphasis on brand identity and sustainable growth. While some designers may still enjoy a certain level of celebrity status, discretion and subtlety have become highly valued qualities. Fashion houses now seek interpreters of their brand identity, sharing the responsibility rather than relying solely on the designer’s persona. However, it is essential to strike a delicate balance between appealing to a wider market and maintaining the brand’s unique identity. Ultimately, fashion should continue to entertain, ask thought-provoking questions, and surprise its audience with new innovations and ideas.
Useful links:
– The Importance of Deep Anonymity in the Fashion Industry
– Balenciaga’s Child Abuse Advertisement Controversy
