The Role of Creative Directors in the Fashion Industry
Finding the perfect creative director is a crucial task for fashion houses, and Alice Bouleau, a headhunter at Sterling International, is an expert in the recruitment process. Drawing from her experience in the industry, Bouleau sheds light on the evolving requirements for creative directors and the unique challenges they face in today’s luxury market.
In the past, fashion houses prioritized the number of social media followers a designer had. However, Bouleau notes that this has changed. While some brands still value designers with a strong online presence, others now seek candidates who have the support of the industry, celebrities, and an existing clientele. This shift reflects the increasing importance of not just recruiting a talented individual, but also acquiring their community of followers.
One question that arises is whether fashion houses prefer creative directors who work exclusively for them. Bouleau explains that the answer depends on the circumstances. For companies undergoing a relaunch or facing difficult times, having a dedicated creative director can be beneficial. However, Bouleau argues that it can also be advantageous for a creative director to maintain their own brand, as long as boundaries are respected. This allows the designer to have a personal outlet for their creative expression and prevents them from using the house solely for their own pursuits.
When it comes to securing the role of creative director, Bouleau emphasizes the importance of credibility both internally and externally. In addition to inspiring the team, creative directors must also gain recognition from the press and the industry as a whole. However, Bouleau expresses concern that leadership skills and the ability to manage large studio teams are often overlooked in the hiring process. The role of the creative director has become increasingly complex, encompassing responsibilities beyond creative direction, such as image, marketing, branding, and merchandising.
The size of a fashion house’s studio can vary depending on its turnover and positioning. Bouleau notes that in large houses, there can be anywhere from 20 to over 100 designers and support staff. Today, creative directors are expected to have a wide range of skills and be cross-functional in their approach. They are almost like mini-CEOs, overseeing various aspects of the business, from campaigns to show production.
However, there are risks associated with this expanded role. Bouleau points out that many designers are promoted based solely on the quality of their designs, without receiving adequate training in management or leadership. This can lead to toxic management situations within the industry. To mitigate this, Bouleau emphasizes the importance of establishing a strong support structure, including a competent studio director and design team.
In the search for the ideal candidate, Bouleau acknowledges that there is no one perfect profile. Instead, it is about analyzing a candidate’s skills and experience and identifying areas where they may need additional support. For example, a designer may excel in creative marketing but lack studio management skills. In such cases, hiring a strong studio manager can complement the creative director’s vision.
The recent trend of promoting design directors to creative director positions is not new. Design directors, who have extensive experience in design, have always been highly sought after by CEOs and companies. Bouleau outlines three typical profiles that companies look for: established creative directors with in-house experience, emerging designers with their own brands or who have not yet been appointed creative directors, and number 2s who possess design and product expertise.
Regarding financial remuneration, creative director positions often command higher salaries due to the unique demands of the role. Like top athletes, creative directors’ careers can be short-lived, and companies are willing to invest in their talents. However, the average length of time a creative director stays in a position varies, as the industry can be impatient and quick to make changes if immediate success is not achieved.
The age of creative directors has also been evolving, with both designers and creative directors getting younger. Bouleau notes a bias against older designers in the industry, which has worsened in recent years. This raises questions about the opportunities available to experienced designers who may no longer fit the industry’s youth-oriented perception.
As a headhunter, Bouleau highlights the importance of constant prospecting and building relationships with professionals in the industry. This allows for a more thorough understanding of potential candidates and facilitates open conversations when positions become available.
Lastly, Bouleau acknowledges the challenges of pursuing a career in fashion, particularly for those from less privileged backgrounds. The high cost of fashion education, the competitiveness of the industry, and the reliance on networking can make it difficult for individuals without financial support to break into the field. Bouleau stresses the need for equal opportunities and support to ensure that talent is uncovered, regardless of background.
Overall, the role of the creative director in the fashion industry has evolved significantly. It now encompasses not only creativity but also leadership, management, and business acumen. Finding the right profile for a creative director requires careful consideration of skills, experience, and compatibility with the brand’s DNA. With the right support structure, creative directors can successfully navigate the challenges of the industry and leave a lasting impact on the brands they lead.
Useful Links:
1. “So You Want to Be Creative Director of a Fashion House?”
2. “The Rise of the Creative CEO in Fashion”
