Young designers are finding inspiration in their grandmothers, a trend that was prominently seen at the International Talent Support fashion competition in Trieste, Italy. Many of the finalists chose their grandparents as muses, indicating a desire to look back into the past for sustainable solutions and to experiment with materials. This trend can be attributed, at least in part, to the pandemic, as young designers were limited to working with what they had during lockdowns. Some experienced the loss of their grandparents, while others gained a newfound appreciation for older generations while living with them.
The collections showcased at the competition were diverse and showcased the unique stories and experiences of each designer. For instance, Rafaela Pestritu drew inspiration from her grandmother’s tales of life under communism in Romania. Her collection combined kitschy stereotypes with organic mutant garments, emphasizing the value of upcycling and handcrafted products. German designer Tatjana Haupt combined the contrasting personas of her grandmother, a traditional housewife, and her mother, a punk enthusiast and IT pioneer, to create a collection infused with humor and feminist slogans. The winner of the ITS Media Award, Martina Durikovic, developed a biodegradable collection using starch water, inspired by her grandmother’s gardening techniques.
The emphasis on grandmothers as sources of inspiration is significant as it bypasses the parental generation. Young designers view their grandparents as the standard bearers and consider their parents as contributors to society’s culture of waste and overconsumption. This shift reflects a longing to reconnect with family, traditions, and the environment, especially considering the challenges posed by climate change. Young designers yearn for a time when nature and individuals were not exploited.
This generation of designers is also exploring practical solutions and focusing on materials. They are developing fabrics derived from natural resources and placing a strong emphasis on waste reduction. Martina Durikovic’s collection highlights the use of starch water as a gelatinous substance that can be transformed into organic plastic for crocheting. Austrian designer Eva Heugenhauser has been working on the concept of water-soluble clothing, while the competition winner, Charlie Constantinou, has developed a stretchable quilted nylon that can adapt to all sizes.
Despite the pervasive influence of digital technology and social media in the fashion industry, young designers are striving to exist in the concrete world and discover tangible solutions. They are turning to their roots and families for strength and are determined to make a positive impact in the industry. Their focus on sustainability and practicality serves as a hopeful indication of the future of fashion.
Useful links:
1. Vogue Fashion Shows
2. Business of Fashion
