The fashion and luxury industry has been a topic of controversy when it comes to the use of animal fur. Animal welfare concerns raised by activists and consumers have led to campaigns and actions against the fur industry. In response to these concerns, the fur industry has attempted to address the issue by creating labels that certify the treatment of animals, such as Welfur. However, this effort has inadvertently boosted the demand for fake fur.
A recent conference organized by the Kering group, Peta, the Chardon-Savard Institute, and Ecopel aimed to shed light on the progress and challenges within the alternative fur industry. According to Christopher Serfati, CEO of Ecopel, the “No fur” movement has played a significant role in driving the development of fake fur. In an effort to provide a premium alternative, Serfati emphasized the need for new advancements in creating faux fur using materials sourced from natural fibers.
As luxury brands distance themselves from animal fur, a trend that is advantageous for manufacturers of fake fur, the market for faux fur is expanding. For instance, Kering has been reducing its fur offerings since 2017. Géraldine Vallejo, the sustainability program director at Kering, highlighted the evolving definition of luxury and the impact of the younger generation’s strong stance on animal welfare. While art directors still need to have creative freedom, they are more willing to explore alternatives when high-quality options are available.
Faux fur offers numerous creative possibilities and can provide warmth equal to that of real fur. Additionally, faux fur coats have a lifespan of up to 10 years, compared to the approximately 30-year lifespan of a well-preserved mink coat. The extended lifespan of real fur necessitates expensive cold storage, which is not accessible to everyone. Consequently, many high-end brands, including Kering, are shifting away from animal fur.
Iris Douzet from Peta highlighted the downward spiral the fur industry currently faces and expressed confidence that it will not recover. Investigations into fur farms have raised awareness and contributed to progress in legislation against animal abuse. However, farms breeding animals like orylag and angora for their fur still exist, and Peta continues to advocate against such practices. Douzet also pointed out that fur is not solely limited to luxury products; it can be found in inexpensive items made from fur predominantly sourced from China, and sometimes even from cats and dogs.
The issue of ethical sourcing has gained increasing importance in the fashion and luxury sectors as consumers demand transparency. While Kering no longer uses animal skins, the company remains cautious about the composition of alternative materials. Synthetic materials like acrylic and modacrylic raise concerns due to their lack of recyclability and the release of toxins at the end of their lifespan. The goal is not to replace real fur with 100% synthetic alternatives, but rather to educate fashion houses on sustainable opportunities and collaborate with different stakeholders to develop more environmentally friendly options.
One of the challenges faced by the faux fur industry is offering responsibly sourced products that are not linked to the oil industry. Arnaud Brunois, the CEO of Ecopel, stated that their aim from the beginning was to provide an alternative to animal fur. While synthetic leather is still necessary for now, the focus is on transitioning towards recycling, biofabrication, and creating materials from plant waste, such as corn or sugar cane. Ecopel is actively working with hemp, nettle, and plastic recovered from oceans to develop more eco-friendly textiles. Currently, 30% of their products are made from more sustainable materials, compared to 0% just a few years ago.
Driven by market expectations for alternatives to animal materials and concerns about the environmental impact, fashion and luxury brands are closely monitoring the development of new solutions. Ecopel is confident in the future of the alternative fur industry and has plans to establish production units in Spain and Italy. As the industry continues to evolve, the challenges of creating alternative materials to animal fur will be met with innovative solutions and a commitment to sustainability.
