The collaboration between Jean-Paul Gaultier and Simone Rocha has resulted in a stunning haute couture collection that showcases outstanding quality and creative brilliance. Rocha pays tribute to Gaultier’s iconic style while infusing her own unique sensibilities, creating a collection of breathtaking beauty and nostalgic allure.
This collaboration marks the sixth time that Gaultier has teamed up with a guest designer for his couture line, and it is undoubtedly the most harmonious and aligned with his grand vision. Rocha’s interpretation of Gaultier’s DNA begins with a dreamy sheer metallic organza crinoline, embellished with hand-painted starbursts and serpents. Another standout piece is a corset dress in silk duchesse, featuring lacing details, suspenders, and a dramatic explosion of tulle at the back. Rocha’s personal touches can be seen throughout the collection, including hand-painted organza tattoos and crystal-embellished shamrock bra designs.
Unlike previous collaborations that relied heavily on clichéd sailor motifs, Rocha introduces a bold concept of a naval femme fatale, complete with a sailor’s cap and a composite mini dress adorned with ruffled soutien gorges and crystal-embroidered tulle ribbons. This imaginative approach extends to a slimline bustle dress in ivory silk organza, embroidered with delicate lace feathers, captivating the front row audience. The collaboration between Rocha and Gaultier’s Paris atelier is palpable, resulting in exquisite pieces such as a green/black taffeta coat with a conical bra and a corset dress adorned with baroque pearl strands. Completing each look are feather-encrusted plexiglass court shoes and platform brogues, which are Rocha’s preferred footwear choices.
Rocha explains that Gaultier allowed her artistic freedom, making this collection her personal tribute to his extraordinary body of work. Her exploration of the female form, particularly focusing on gloves, breasts, and second-skin garments, adds a unique and unexpected twist to the collection. The show itself pays homage to the craftsmanship of haute couture, with a minimalistic audience seated on simple plywood school chairs and a runway covered in silver foil. The music, expertly mixed by DJ Frederic Sanchez, blends opera arias with iconic rock anthems that have become synonymous with Gaultier’s shows.
Working with a couture atelier was a transformative experience for Rocha, who relished the opportunity to bring historical techniques into the modern era. The collection highlights the meticulous attention to detail that is synonymous with couture, with each look meticulously crafted and precisely itemized using French couture terminology. Rocha reimagines Gaultier’s iconic Madonna conical bras, creating a twisted version that adds a surprising and unexpected element to the collection.
In summary, the Jean-Paul Gaultier Haute Couture collection by Simone Rocha is a true celebration of the artistry and craftsmanship of couture. With its originality, exquisite craftsmanship, and thoughtful design, this collection stands out as one of the most remarkable of the season. Rocha’s debut in Paris leaves a lasting impression and firmly establishes her place in the world of couture.
Useful links:
1. Vogue – Explore more about the world of high fashion and couture on Vogue’s website.
2. Business of Fashion – Stay updated with the latest news and insights into the fashion industry on the Business of Fashion website.
