The selection of the artist as the director of men’s creation for the world’s leading luxury brand speaks volumes about the company’s cultural aspirations.
As luxury historians and economists reflect on the year 2022, they will undoubtedly take note of Louis Vuitton’s monumental achievement of surpassing 20 billion euros in turnover for the first time in the luxury industry’s history. This record-breaking accomplishment now sets the bar for the new CEO, Pietro Beccari, who assumed his position on January 11, 2023. His responsibility is not only to maintain but to further increase this impressive achievement.
Fortunately, this challenge is not daunting for Beccari, who has already proven his abilities at Dior, where he tripled the company’s turnover in just five years. He achieved this by implementing a strategy that relied on the artistic vision of its directors, a deep understanding of the product, frequent events such as fashion shows and exhibitions, and transforming Dior’s Avenue Montaigne location into a cultural hub. Beccari’s appointment at Louis Vuitton signifies the brand’s cultural ambitions and its dedication to elevating the luxury industry to new heights.
It is clear that we must interpret Pietro Beccari’s initial decision in this context: the nomination of Pharrell Williams as the creative director for the Men’s line, a post that had remained unoccupied since Virgil Abloh’s death in November 2021. Beccari expressed his elation, saying, “I am delighted to have Pharrell back at the house after our collaborations in 2004 and 2008 for Louis Vuitton, as the new creative director for menswear. His exceptional creative vision that extends beyond fashion is sure to pave the way for an exciting new chapter for Louis Vuitton.”
Pharrell Williams, in a strict sense, is not a fashion designer, unlike his counterpart for the Louis Vuitton women’s line, Nicolas Ghesquière. Nevertheless, Williams has a strong affinity for the world of fashion and has previously worked with Louis Vuitton, designing a collection of jewelry and sunglasses.
Pharrell Williams, a fashion icon in his own right, has been a long-standing ambassador for Chanel. He has famously sported the brand’s iconic tweed jacket and even designed sneakers for the prestigious house. In collaboration with designer Nigo, who is currently at the helm of Kenzo, Williams founded his own brand, Billionaire Boys Club. Despite his notable involvement in the fashion industry, Williams’ primary claim to fame remains in the music industry, where he has achieved great success as a performer and producer, earning an impressive 13 Grammy Awards.
Beyond his musical accomplishments, Williams has become a prominent figure in pop culture, expanding his influence to various creative fields. He has even dabbled in design, showcasing his works at Emmanuel Perrotin’s gallery in Paris in 2009. As such, Williams has emerged as a “universal cultural icon,” as stated in the press release that announced his appointment as creative director for Louis Vuitton Men.
The choice of appointing Pharrell Williams as the creative director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear division highlights the significance of the role of an artistic director within a luxury brand. It goes beyond just creating fashion designs to include creating a culture of desirability that goes beyond mere collections. Pharrell Williams’ personal celebrity and icon status has positioned him as a collaborator with luxury brands that are seeking to grow their business through cultural relevance.
This move also reinforces Louis Vuitton’s position as a cultural platform, where their products are just one expression of a broader aesthetic ambition. Pharrell Williams’ arrival is expected to bring a new creative vision beyond fashion that will lead the brand to an exciting new chapter. He is expected to be more of an “entertainer” than a fashion designer and will debut his first collection in June 2023. Overall, this appointment speaks to the evolution of the luxury industry and how cultural relevance is becoming more critical for growth.
