The fashion industry has long faced criticism for its lack of inclusivity and its endorsement of thinness as the ideal body type. Although some brands claim to embrace curvier bodies, recent data suggests that this may be nothing more than a tactic to deflect criticism while perpetuating the idolization of thinness.
A study by Vogue Business analyzed fashion shows in major cities including New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Out of the 9,137 outfits showcased, only 0.6 percent were considered plus-size (US size 14 and above), and a mere 3.8 percent were sizes 6-12. This means that a staggering 95.6 percent of outfits were in US sizes 0-4, which does not accurately represent the average woman’s size. Paolo Volonte, a sociology of fashion professor, calls this practice “fat-washing,” drawing a parallel to the concept of “green-washing” where industries make empty promises about their commitment to climate change.
Ekaterina Ozhiganova, a 20-year-old model and law student, believes that luxury brands simply refuse to represent individuals who are of a “normal” size. She observes that medium-sized women are often forced to either lose weight or squeeze into XL sizes, both of which are unhealthy. Ozhiganova’s advocacy group, Model Law, conducted a survey revealing that nine out of ten models feel pressure to alter their bodies, with over half facing this pressure regularly. The fashion industry’s pervasive obsession with thinness creates an unrealistic and detrimental standard for those involved in the industry.
The historical roots of this obsession can be traced back to the rise of industrial production techniques. Previously, designers would create clothes tailored to each individual. However, with mass production, designers began using small templates that could be scaled up for larger sizes. This system becomes less effective as body shapes change due to fat and muscle, leading to higher costs and a need for greater expertise in producing and selling clothing in larger sizes. Additionally, thinness became associated with wealth, as it symbolized having the time and resources to focus on one’s body. Advertising and day-to-day practices in the fashion industry have further reinforced this association.
Efforts were made in the early 2000s to address these concerns, particularly with regards to size-zero models promoting anorexia. France, for example, now requires models to pass medical examinations, and major luxury conglomerates such as LVMH and Kering have committed to stop using size-zero models. However, implementing these changes is challenging due to the variation in sizes across different brands. Designers themselves are often bound by the demands of the industry and the preferences of their clients.
Although progress has been made in addressing discrimination based on race and gender, tackling body shape remains a challenge in the fashion industry. Couturier Mohammad Ashi acknowledges the issue but explains that producing plus-size clothing is not feasible from an industrial perspective. He states that designers sell what they show, and their clients have specific preferences. Couturier Julien Fournie has featured pregnant models and models with different body shapes, but he highlights that fashion itself is a fantasy world that is unlikely to undergo fundamental transformation.
In conclusion, despite some recent attention to body diversity, the fashion industry still largely promotes and perpetuates the ideal of thinness. The use of curvy models remains an exception rather than the norm, with the majority of outfits in fashion shows catering to smaller sizes. Efforts to address these issues have seen limited success, and enforcement poses a challenge. It is evident that there is still a long way to go before true inclusivity and representation are achieved in the fashion industry.
Useful links:
1. Vogue Australia – How Fashion Can Be More Inclusive of Plus-Size Bodies
2. Business of Fashion – Curves Ahead: Resolving the Fashion Industry’s Plus-Size Problem
