The fall 2023 collection by Alexander McQueen, presented by designer Sarah Burton, was an awe-inspiring display of the fusion of strict tailoring and the sensuality of anatomy. The show took place in a round white show-space near Napoleon’s tomb, creating a striking backdrop for the captivating collection.
One of the standout moments of the event was Naomi Campbell’s entrance. She made a bold statement wearing mannish serge wool pants, a matching bustier, and a two-foot-long braid. Even the house logo on her program notes was cleverly displayed upside down, adding a touch of subtle subversion.
Burton showcased her mastery of tailoring with carefully crafted double-breasted coats for men, paying homage to the founder Lee McQueen’s early days as an apprentice tailor on Savile Row. She then added her innovative touch by creating variations with exaggerated shoulders and extended lapels for women. It was a mini tailoring tutorial that celebrated the brand’s heritage.
The collection featured a range of statement pieces, including corset and pants combinations, gangster suits with broken-pattern pinstripes, and cutaway tuxedo gowns made from the same material. One of the most memorable pieces was the ruched shouldered trench-coat, available in beige mercerized cotton or purple calfskin, which was styled with long elbow-length gloves.
Burton drew inspiration from the early days of McQueen, focusing on Savile Row and the art of tailoring. She incorporated various prints featuring bone structures or muscles, adorning black technical organza coats and silk tuxedos. Pushing boundaries further, she constructed superheroine dresses using tentacles made from innovative materials such as techy wool, metallic silk thread, and Aran knit. The collection also featured a reimagined version of the iconic Aran sweater, giving it a medieval knight aesthetic.
One of Burton’s key inspirations for the collection was the film “Tár,” particularly the iconic scene where Cate Blanchett’s suit is cut, highlighting the movement of her arm. As a fashion conductor herself, Burton showcased her technical audacity and superior tailoring skills, solidifying her position as a frontrunner in the industry.
Overall, Alexander McQueen’s fall 2023 collection brilliantly married strict tailoring with the allure of anatomy. The collection was a testament to Burton’s talent and artistry, as she seamlessly blended traditional techniques with innovative designs and prints. As the show came to an end, it was evident that the brand continues to lead the fashion world, consistently pushing boundaries and defying expectations.
Useful Links:
– Vogue – Alexander McQueen Fall 2023 Collection
– Harper’s Bazaar – Alexander McQueen Fall 2023 Collection Review
