Rei Kawakubo once again demonstrates her artistic vision in the latest collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, using flowers as a powerful symbol. Collaborating with Rocky Mountain collage artist Bedelgeuse, Kawakubo showcased her unique interpretation of menswear in the Spring/Summer 2022 show. The collection prominently featured her signature collage couture, with garments like Eisenhower jackets and officer’s blazers dissected halfway down the chest and finished with floral tentacles at the back, held together by fabric debris.
The attention to tailoring in this collection is exceptional. The lieutenant’s khaki safari jacket, for example, stands out with scalloped trim and cloth jerkins adorned with buttons practically displayed to the sleeves. Additionally, floral bloomers and ballooned-up fatigue shorts, paired with Restoration rogue frocks in Kawakubo’s fetish posh-punk tartan, added a striking element to the collection. It’s clear that this line is designed for individuals who want to make a bold statement, fittingly titled “The Existence of Flowers.”
Kawakubo expressed her thoughts on flowers, emphasizing their significance beyond just happy occasions. She stated, “Flowers are not there only for happy times. They exist also for tough, sorrowful, and painful times. Even a tiny roadside flower can heal our shredded heart.” This sentiment perfectly resonated with the collaboration with Bedelgeuse, whose phantasmagorical anatomical collages beautifully complemented Comme des Garçons’ aesthetic. Oversized images featuring crystals, flowers, and feathers adorned elongated sweatshirts and knee-length shirts trimmed with faux fur.
Travis Bedel, known as Bedelgeuse, shared that his collages represent themes of love, loss, and letting go, aiming to express the ever-changing nature of the human psyche. Another noteworthy aspect of the show was the remarkable headgear by fine artist Ibrahim Kamara. His papier-mâché sculptures, gripping the models’ skulls and even featuring a bludgeon rammed into the head, added a moody-mutant-madness vibe to the collection.
Despite the minimalistic setting of the show, filmed in Japan with only 20 plastic chairs and no audience, this collection presented a plethora of ideas surpassing many other menswear designers this summer. Rei Kawakubo’s continued ability to push boundaries and showcase her creative prowess is truly remarkable, even in her late seventies.
Useful links:
1. Comme des Garçons Official Website
2. Bedelgeuse Official Website
