As Hermès prepares to launch its second limited edition series of lipsticks, Pascal Barragué, an advertising expert in the luxury and beauty industry, questions the effectiveness of advertising exclusively for lipsticks. The lipstick market has experienced significant ups and downs in recent months. It saw a surge in growth with the entry of new players like Hermès and witnessed incredible success stories. For example, Coty reported selling over one million lipsticks in the first month of Gucci Beauty’s launch. However, the COVID-19 pandemic and the mandatory use of masks have led to a decline in lipstick sales.
The overall makeup industry has seen a decrease in sales, with consumers shifting their focus to skincare products. Lipstick, in particular, has been hit hard by this trend. In June, the French news program JT de France 2 reported a 58% decrease in lipstick sales compared to an increase in eye and nail products. One of the main reasons for this decline is the fact that wearing masks makes lipsticks less visible and therefore less attractive.
The lipstick market is not only volatile but also highly fragmented into various sub-segments based on product characteristics and finishes, such as matte, glossy, satin, and pearlescent. This fragmentation, along with the wide range of available colors offered by different brands, adds complexity to the market.
Despite these challenges, lipsticks are still associated with strong emotions and are considered a symbol of seduction, self-affirmation, and the promise of a kiss. This emotional connection explains the continuing demand for new lipstick products. Beyond their seductive qualities, lipsticks are also seen as status symbols. The packaging, color, material, and design of the lipstick itself represent luxury, style, and the brand’s image.
Given all these factors, it is important to understand the role of advertising in promoting lipsticks. Different brands approach media communication for lipsticks in different ways. Some focus on showcasing the product features, such as oversized lips and glossy finishes, as tangible results of using the lipstick. For example, Dior Addict commercials featuring Cara Delevingne and Armani spots with Barbara Palvin exemplify this approach. Using a brand ambassador can enhance the connection between the message and the brand, as demonstrated by Natalie Portman for Dior Rouge Liquid, Natalia Vodianova for Guerlain, and Monica Bellucci for Dolce Gabbana.
Alternatively, lipstick advertising can highlight the uniqueness of the product in a way that reflects the brand’s identity. For example, Gucci’s campaign celebrates imperfections and body positivity while staying true to the brand’s aesthetics and communication style. Hermès focused on their iconic orange box by showcasing the lipstick case in their advertisement, reflecting the brand’s color and aesthetics. Tom Ford Beauty faced the challenge of creating a distinctive campaign without recognizable codes, and their solution was to feature Tom Ford himself alongside comedian Celeste Barber in a humorous kiss that subverted traditional seductive codes. Chanel combines product-focused advertising with references to its brand history, using names like Rouge Allure and brand ambassadors like Lily-Rose Depp or Kristen Stewart.
In conclusion, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to creating effective lipstick advertisements. Brands can choose to focus on the product itself or highlight their brand identity through their campaigns. Lipstick advertisements will continue to captivate screens and evoke desire and excitement among consumers.
Links to relevant articles:
1. Lipstick Innovation: Fashion and Lifestyle Brands Take a Shine to Classic Makeup Item
2. Should lipsticks be around in the age of face masks?
