Paris bid a tearful farewell to fashion genius, Vivienne Westwood, at her fall 2023 show, which showcased her first collection since her passing in December. The prestigious event took place at the Hotel de la Marine on the renowned Place de la Concorde, drawing a massive crowd of devoted fans. Inside, esteemed guests such as Jared Leto, Tracey Emin, and Jean-Paul Gaultier took their seats beneath the grandeur of gilded frescos, preparing themselves for an emotional experience.
The show commenced with an awe-inspiring punk-inspired ensemble crafted by Andreas Kronthaler, Westwood’s long-term partner and designated successor. This remarkable look featured a chiffon top embellished with a striking photograph of a smiling Westwood, paired with a mini kilt, gothic leggings, and towering platforms. The collection flawlessly melded elements from Westwood’s illustrious career, encompassing Anglomania, punk aesthetics, rustic fantasies, and British glamour. Andreas ingeniously incorporated old stock and reimagined elements from previous seasons, forging a connection between this collection and Vivienne’s own designs, resulting in a truly profound moment.
Throughout the show, viewers were treated to breathtaking twin sets adorned with Ancient Greek figure prints, followed by grandiose punk-inspired tailoring. Parade of models exuded a rock’n’roll revival vibe, featuring golden thigh-high pirate boots and wooden-soled uber platforms. The collection dazzled with its eclectic mix of materials, showcasing prairie flower print skirts, jacquard coats, madras check waistcoats, matelassé Alpine flower blankets, and English garden flower print platforms. One particularly captivating look explored high-fashion cross-dressing, a concept that Westwood pioneered in the industry.
The models themselves were chosen with great care, ensuring the inclusion of many loyal followers of Westwood’s work, thereby amplifying the poignant nature of the show. Jean-Paul Gaultier, himself a fashion legend, attended the event and commented on the collection, stating, “It was a beautiful funeral. A magnificent collection and the perfect farewell to a remarkable designer who influenced us all. Myself included, from the early days of punk, Malcolm Mclaren, and the Sex Pistols.”
Vivienne Westwood’s indelible impact on the fashion world is immeasurable. She burst onto the scene by dressing the iconic Sex Pistols and establishing the revolutionary boutique, Sex, on Kings Road in 1975. Her audacious designs and punk ethos sparked controversy, with Westwood even facing arrest for mocking the Queen during her golden anniversary. Over a decade later, she solidified her status as a vital figure in Parisian fashion.
For Andreas Kronthaler, preserving the legacy of Vivienne Westwood was of paramount importance following her passing. He expressed his unwavering dedication to keeping her vision alive and discussed how the work has helped him navigate through his grief. Kronthaler emphasized the immense love and support they have received from people, underscoring Westwood’s impact not only within the fashion industry but also across various arenas of society. Furthermore, he paid homage to Westwood’s deep connection with nature and the countryside by incorporating elements such as vintage blankets and 18th-century drapery into the collection, hinting that there is still much of Westwood’s fabric left to be discovered.
The poignant farewell to Vivienne Westwood on a Parisian catwalk marked the end of a truly remarkable era. She will forever be etched in history as the most influential designer in British fashion, fearlessly challenging conventions and shaping the industry as we know it. Her indomitable spirit and boundary-pushing creations will continue to inspire future generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts.
Vogue – Vivienne Westwood Obituary>
Vanity Fair – Vivienne Westwood Fall 2023 Show>
