The Paris menswear incubator, Sphere, took center stage this season, showcasing a new level of maturity in the fashion industry. Unlike its counterpart, the Designer Apartment, which often featured student collections lacking professionalism, Sphere highlighted bona-fide young professional fashion brands that presented polished and original garments. The new location, housed inside the Palais de Tokyo, provided the perfect backdrop with its airy space and abundant natural light.
Among the designers featured, Arturo Obegero stole the show with his flamenco-inspired collection for both men and women. Elongated jumpsuits, flowing pajamas, and sleek Latin lover suits in various fabrics and patterns wowed the audience. Obegero’s goal was to create dandy pajamas that exude sexiness and beauty, even when worn outside the bedroom. The use of high-quality dead stock from LVMH fabric company Nona Source added an extra touch of luxury to the garments. A video featuring super skinny flamenco dancers and black-eyed femme fatales further elevated the energy of Obegero’s collection.
French duo, Uniforme, consisting of Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats, offered a cool reinterpretation of French aviation imagery in their workwear collection. Their show video depicted two young models playing with a model airplane, symbolizing the universal desire for travel during the lockdown. Standout pieces included sun-bleached aviator jackets, jumpsuits made from parachute fabrics, and linen safari jackets with military belts. Craftsmanship was a key focus, with nearly all garments made by traditional French artisans and suppliers. A collaboration with Weston resulted in a pair of black leather brogues with a silver trim and the duo’s signature strip logo.
Pierre-François Valette’s Valette Studio presented a collection that celebrated savoir-faire and subtlety. Inspired by the writings of French author Albert Camus, the collection portrayed a romantic adventurer from North Africa who crafted his own couture-inspired wardrobe. Oversized tailored trousers, chunky cable knitwear, and trench coats with braided wool trim showcased the brand’s attention to detail. The color palette, featuring faded pink, pistachio green, dry denim blue, and old burgundy red, enhanced the overall appeal of the garments. Valette also added a unique touch to the collection with a hand-embroidered T-shirt featuring an exact replica of his own ink drawing.
In conclusion, Sphere’s latest season served as evidence of the growth and maturity of emerging designers in Paris menswear. Through vibrant collections and subtle advancements in menswear, Arturo Obegero, Uniforme, LGN, and Valette displayed their potential and creativity. Sphere, as an incubator salon and platform, offered these designers an opportunity to showcase their talent and leave a lasting impression on the fashion industry.
Useful Links:
1. Sphere Trends – Official website of Sphere, the menswear incubator in Paris.
2. Palais de Tokyo – Official website of the Palais de Tokyo, the location of Sphere’s latest season.
