The first day of Milan Fashion Week was nothing short of spectacular, with Fendi, Del Core, and Cavalli stealing the show with their bold and modern designs. Fendi, under the creative direction of Kim Jones, wowed the audience with its modernist style and impeccable color coordination. Jones beautifully combined elements from Fendi’s archives and Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s personal wardrobe to create a collection that felt both fresh and contemporary. The tailoring was exceptional, with sharp suits featuring striking lapels, and deconstructed wrap coats adorned with luxurious satin bands. The collection also deviated from Fendi’s typically earthy tones and presented a vibrant color palette that added an exciting touch. Models graced the runway in romantic crepe sheath dresses adorned with diagonal large print logo stripes and embroidered fabric ivy, creating a dreamy and feminine aesthetic. The show’s set, featuring constructivist scaffoldings in lime, candy pink, and petrol blue, added to the overall visual impact. In addition to his creative prowess, Jones paid homage to the late Karl Lagerfeld while injecting Fendi with a more commercial appeal. The casting for the show was also highly praised, with models emanating effortless beauty through their bedroom hair and mauve lipstick. Jones’ collection was a testament to his experimentation with ready-to-wear and couture, but it truly stood out with its bold colors and clever styling.
Cavalli, presented by Fausto Puglisi, brought grand Hollywood glamour, regal elegance, and daring bodycon silhouettes to the forefront. The collection presented a unique combination that seemed to encapsulate the essence of legendary screen goddess designer Adrian meeting the spirit of Roberto Cavalli. The dresses boasted intricately draped fan-shaped details, delivering a racier take on 1930s LA society chic. Moiré coats with leopard-skin linings and tiger-pattern flats brought an exotic twist to the collection. Puglisi also introduced risqué mega plissé skirts paired with hot pants and leather bras, capturing the rebellious spirit of the Cavalli woman. In his program notes, Puglisi mentioned the influence of Hitchcock, but also expressed concerns about the upcoming Italian parliamentary elections and the rise of the extreme right wing. Despite these concerns, Puglisi’s collection exuded magnificence and showcased his brilliant ability to recycle and reimagine concepts using new materials.
Del Core presented an eclectic collection that seamlessly blended elements of haute-couture. The collection commenced with floral jacquard suits meticulously crafted with precision and culminated in stunning evening gowns draped in red crochet, gauzy crepe, and dazzling lemon sequins. Designer Daniel Del Core aimed to create a diverse collection that explored the fluidity and lightness of a woman’s style. The collection also showcased bold bodycon designs, including cut-out punk bodystockings, pencil pant suits, and flared loose-weave knitted pants. Del Core drew inspiration from the iconic Helmut Newton, infusing the collection with simplicity and sharpness through wildlife-inspired colors.
Overall, the first day of Milan Fashion Week presented a captivating assortment of powerful and innovative designs. Fendi, Del Core, and Cavalli left an indelible mark with their unique styles and meticulous attention to detail. As Milan Fashion Week continues, fashion enthusiasts eagerly await what other designers have in store, bringing the fashion world’s creativity and innovation to new heights.
Useful links:
1. Fendi Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
2. Cavalli Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
