Setchu, the winner of the prestigious LVMH Prize at Milan Fashion Week, is a designer poised to make a lasting impact in the fashion industry. Satoshi Kuwata, the creative genius behind Setchu, received a remarkable €400,000 prize for his remarkable work. His presentation at Milan Fashion Week was nothing short of spectacular, showcasing his innovative approach to fashion through an elegant and artistic installation.
Taking inspiration from traditional Japanese ceremonies, such as tea, flowers, and calligraphy, Satoshi created a visually stunning spectacle. Multiple mode ceremonies were projected onto three screens, displaying models gracefully donning his unique designs in precise steps. What sets his creations apart are the captivating cuts, unconventional placement of holes and straps, and the ability to open and close garments in multiple places, resulting in multi-use pieces.
The presentation was expertly captured on film by local filmmaker Massimiliano Bomba, who opted for a “vintage style” before editing and transferring it to video. The collection itself was a sight to behold, featuring exquisite pieces like pink denim-like linen mannish suits, scalloped back white blouses, colonial cotton white safari jackets, and striped apron/dresses for men. Satoshi’s objective is to embrace the era of artificial intelligence while simultaneously creating timeless garments that can withstand the test of time for a century.
Satoshi’s craftsmanship is a testament to his journey in mastering the art of fashion. Similarly to the legendary Alexander McQueen, Satoshi honed his skills in the traditional manner by working at Savile Row, notably at H. Huntsman. He further enhanced his expertise through collaborations with Givenchy, Edun, and even Kanye West. Although he showcased only a few physical garments during his presentation, each piece was exceptional. Highlights included a black leather biker jacket crafted from a single piece of rawhide that fully zips up at the sides, along with a ribbed knit that can be separated into three pieces.
The presentation itself took place on tatami mats, adding both aesthetic appeal and cultural significance to the overall experience. One conceptual linen sack dress was particularly laid out to resemble a long, narrow gift box, perfectly designed for effortless transportation. Satoshi aptly named this display “Ceremony Of How To” due to its intricate depiction of his design process.
Satoshi currently resides and works in the southern part of Milan, where his aspirations stretch beyond the fashion world. He dreams of spending more time fishing and envisions himself wearing a dinner jacket while pursuing black tuna in the open ocean. As a tribute to his passion for fishing, he proudly presented a half a dozen linen fishing tuxedos on mats during his showcase.
Setchu’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection serves as a testament to Satoshi Kuwata’s extraordinary talent and his relentless drive to push the boundaries of fashion. With his distinct vision and meticulous craftsmanship, Satoshi is unquestionably poised to become an influential force in the industry. Milan Fashion Week bore witness to the most original menswear display of the year, solidifying Setchu as a brand to watch out for.
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