Schiaparelli, the renowned fashion house known for its boundary-pushing designs, is currently experiencing a revitalization under the guidance of creative director Daniel Roseberry. Roseberry has not only unveiled an impressive new collection for Schiaparelli but has also announced a major retrospective honoring the life and work of founder Elsa Schiaparelli, set to be hosted at the Louvre this summer.
The Fall/Winter 2022 collection from Schiaparelli takes a departure from the brand’s signature shocking pink, opting instead for a sophisticated black and white palette. Inspired by Roseberry’s recent couture collection, the ideas have been translated into ready-to-wear pieces, with impeccable tailoring evident in details such as evil eye gold buttons and white passamenterie collars. The collection includes crisp chalk stripe suits, caftans adorned with mesmerizing drawings, and flawlessly cut velvet coat-dresses.
Roseberry’s thorough immersion in the history of the house while preparing for the upcoming exhibition has given him the confidence to directly draw inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s archives. The collection incorporates sweaters with silk stock trompe l’oeil patterns and cashmere roll-necks featuring piano key designs, paying homage to the early days of Elsa’s career. These archival pieces will be prominently displayed in the exhibition titled “Shocking Chic, The Surrealist Worlds of Elsa Schiaparelli,” set to open on July 4.
Apart from the new collection, the Schiaparelli presentation also showcased a range of accessories including handbags, shoes, and hats. Roseberry’s original drawings were transformed into prints for the bags, while the collection itself featured standout items like black leather thigh boots, sling-backs with black claws, and shearling pumps with golden-nose buckles. Schiaparelli is making a significant push in the accessories category to further expand its brand.
Under Roseberry’s visionary leadership, Schiaparelli has gained momentum and established a strong presence in the fashion industry. Last year, the brand opened an atelier space in Bergdorf Goodman, and now owner Diego della Valle has plans for a second atelier, potentially in London. However, the next major milestone for Schiaparelli is the upcoming retrospective at the Louvre, which aims to highlight the intimate relationship between fashion and art. Elsa Schiaparelli’s career was marked by her exploration of various forms and inspirations, often collaborating with artist friends such as Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, and Salvador Dalí.
When questioned about what Elsa would think of the house today, Roseberry humbly admits uncertainty. Nonetheless, he greatly appreciates the support from those who admire her work and feels a profound connection to her legacy. Roseberry sees his role as the creative director of Schiaparelli as a rare opportunity to honor and carry forward the pioneering spirit of the house.
Links:
1. Official Schiaparelli Website
2. Louvre Museum Official Website
