Sacai, the fashion label founded by Chitose Abe, has unquestionably left a lasting impression this season with its latest collection. Unveiled during a mesmerizing show on a Sunday afternoon in Paris, the collection perfectly captured a sense of composite coolness and an attitude of bold experimentation.
The show took place within the Carreau du Temple, a historically significant market building that has played host to legendary shows by renowned designers like Helmut Lang, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo. Chitose Abe can now proudly add her name to this prestigious list. The collection featured a range of standout pieces, including parkas inspired by nomadic superheroes, padded Mao jackets, and oversized pants for men. Additionally, the show presented striking Himalayan mohair sweaters and Black watch kilts. However, the most remarkable piece was undoubtedly the composite trench coat, which artfully combined elements of a traditional trench coat and a spy coat through vertical panels made of rubberized cotton and felty wool.
The women’s wear offerings from Sacai were equally audacious, with Abe introducing sensational down cocoon waistcoats paired with plissé silk skirts adorned with deep military pockets. The collection also featured gilets with oversized lamb of mutton sleeves and baseball jackets trimmed with fur, all in a futuristic silver hue. In a collaboration with New York graphic artist Marc Gonzales, Abe incorporated skateboarding motifs and quirky lettering into around 10 looks, including sweatshirts, tops, and even sewn details on the composite tailoring. The collection also included cloth badges embellished with playful slogans like “SacaiGonz,” “Good Vibes Tribe,” and “One Love.”
Adding to the show’s splendor, Chitose Abe collaborated with J.M. Weston, showcasing two new looks: Golf Derbies and Worker Boots. Both styles featured a shoe sole specially developed for this collaboration by the skilled team at the Limoges workshop. These pieces perfectly embodied Sacai’s signature coolness and unexpected flair.
Beyond the exceptional clothing, Sacai’s show was elevated by an impressive soundtrack. A blend of heavy rock, serial music, and eerie sounds reminiscent of horror films set the mood, culminating in the final anthem, “Tonight, Tonight” by The Smashing Pumpkins.
When asked about her inspiration, Chitose Abe revealed that she wanted to celebrate life and create a collection that fostered unity and awareness, particularly after experiencing a recent traumatic event. She described the collection as an exploration of new ideas and silhouettes, which is why she titled it “Uniforms.” The designer’s enthusiasm was palpable as she took her bow, receiving thunderous applause from the audience.
In summary, Sacai’s latest collection was a triumph of composite coolness and bold experimentation. Chitose Abe’s innovative designs flawlessly melded different elements to create distinctive and daring pieces. With this collection, Sacai reaffirms its position as one of the most impactful brands of the season, captivating both men and women with its audacious and stylish creations.
For more information about Sacai’s latest collection and the fashion brand itself, you can visit these websites:
1. Sacai Official Website
2. Sacai on Vogue
