Renowned fashion designer Rick Owens recently debuted his latest collection in a truly unique and unconventional setting. Staged on a worn concrete military-style jetty overlooking the gray Adriatic Sea in Venice, this location perfectly complemented Owens’ avant-garde vision. Inspired by the Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ prayed before his crucifixion, Owens presented a collection that captured the tension and drama of biblical times.
Despite being showcased in Venice, the collection was unveiled as part of Paris Fashion Week, further solidifying Owens’ status as a star in the industry for over 15 years. The show took place on the gray beach of Lido, with Owens’ fashion-forward priests, priestesses, and celebrants gathering to stage a gloomy sacrament. True to his reputation for inventive cutting and draping techniques, Owens did not disappoint this season.
The collection featured remarkable sleeping-bag tunics, oversized puffer capes fit for a cardinal, and bold armature designs, including American football shoulder pads and Viking breastplates. Owens referred to these pieces as “power-shoulder capes that turn the body into architectural bulldozers.” It was evident that Owens’ surroundings on the melancholic winters of Venice’s Lido and its numerous churches had begun to influence his creative thinking.
Throughout the show, the masked designer closely monitored the final looks on the beach, while helpers dressed the models. The clothing itself showcased Owens’ signature aesthetic, with tubular knit dresses, tailored jackets made from recycled plastic waste, deep purple metallic satin jumpsuits, and even the occasional turquoise metallic jockstrap for a touch of color. Shredded catsuits paired with platform thigh-boots referenced the act of tearing one’s garments as an act of grief, as seen in the Bible.
Owens’ designs have never been for the faint-hearted, and wearing his dramatically bold outfits automatically suggests an affiliation with an advanced thinking cult. This collection was no exception, with each piece making a bold statement. As the show concluded, the models stood on the jetty like sentinels, participating in an obscure rite. Smoke billowed out of one end, and the moment was captured by a drone, commemorating the latest chapter in Rick Owens’ contemporary myth.
Owens himself chose not to take a bow at the end of the show, as his incredible creation spoke for itself. The fashion world eagerly awaits Owens’ next move, as he continues to push the boundaries of design and challenge traditional ideas of fashion.
Useful links:
1. Rick Owens official website
2. Fall 2022 menswear collection on Vogue
