In the heart of Tripoli’s Old City in Libya, a group of young Libyans is reinvigorating the ancient art of filigree jewellery. This traditional craft has been on the verge of extinction for decades, due to the oppressive rule of dictatorship and the ravages of war. However, these talented artisans are breathing new life into the art, skillfully creating delicate patterns with threads of silver and gold.
One remarkable young artisan is Abdelmajid Zeglam, a 12-year-old prodigy whose intricate creations have gained popularity in the streets surrounding a Roman-era archway dedicated to Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Despite his tender age, Zeglam is already a master in the making. Initially hesitant to pursue the art, he was spurred on by his mother’s encouragement, and now he is one of approximately 20 students studying at the Libyan Academy for Traditional Gold and Silver Crafts. Remarkably, half of the students at the academy are female, showcasing the growing interest in this traditional craft among Libyan women.
At the academy, trainees first learn about precious metal alloys before delving into the intricacies of filigree. This technique involves skillfully weaving beads and threads of precious materials into elaborate designs, which are then meticulously soldered together to create stunning pieces of jewellery. Zeglam, whose dreams alternate between becoming a petroleum engineer and a jeweller, exudes love and passion for the craft.
Another student, Mohamed al-Miloudi, a 22-year-old civil engineering student, sees filigree jewellery as both a hobby and a potential trade. Since joining the academy in September, he has not missed a single class. The founder of the institute, Abdelnasser Aboughress, emphasizes the historical importance of filigree jewellery in Libya. He explains that craftsmen in the medina of Tripoli were once trained by esteemed Jewish and Arab masters at the renowned School of Arts and Trades, which was established in the late 19th century.
Unfortunately, this rich tradition abruptly ended when Moamer Kadhafi seized power in a coup in 1969. Kadhafi dismantled the private sector, confiscating assets and destroying the livelihoods of self-employed artisans. Generations of tradition were lost as these craftsmen were forced to abandon their workshops and students. Many of them had no choice but to join the army or become civil servants, leaving behind their beloved craft.
Aboughress, however, persevered in his craft, working clandestinely with his father to create jewellery for trusted clients. Now, he is determined to revive this art form and pass it on to future generations. Preserving this cultural heritage is crucial, particularly with a flooded market of lower-quality jewellery imported from Egypt and China. Aboughress is currently working on a project to document and protect as much of Libya’s heritage as possible.
One passionate student at the academy, Fatima Boussoua, strongly opposes the practice of selling old Libyan silver jewellery at low prices, only for it to be melted down and exported. She emphasizes the urgent need to train artists who can preserve and promote Libya’s heritage. Despite being a dentist in her 40s, Boussoua has been dedicating her time to training at the centre for the past year in order to become skilled in this traditional craft.
While becoming an expert in filigree jewellery requires years of training, Aboughress’s students have already begun producing pieces for sale both online and at the centre. However, financial support is crucial to acquire the expensive raw materials necessary for this art. Additionally, moral support is vital to keep this project alive. Aboughress hopes to establish more workshops across Libya in the future, injecting new vitality into this ancient craft.
These young Libyans are not only creating breathtaking pieces of jewellery, but they are also preserving their cultural heritage and reclaiming their artistic identity. Through their endless passion and dedication, they are breathing new life into an art that was nearly forgotten, ensuring that this traditional craft continues to thrive for generations to come.
Useful Links:
1. Visit Libya
2. Libyan Diaspora
