Grace Wales Bonner, a British designer of Afro-Caribbean descent, made waves at Paris menswear with a show that captured the essence of Parisian fashion. Drawing inspiration from a group of artists, writers, and political theorists who found solace in post-war Paris, Bonner aimed to convey through her clothing how these visionaries thrived in a city that embraced their talent and ideas.
Bonner first gained recognition for her groundbreaking tailoring and unique cuts in her debut show in 2014, which paid tribute to her ancestors’ exploration of sartorial style in London and their distinct interpretation of it. This season, her focus was on a specific era when black trailblazers sought refuge in Paris to express their ideologies and liberate their own cultures. Influential figures such as poet Aimé Césaire, dancer Josephine Baker, writer and senator Alioune Diop, novelist James Baldwin, and political philosopher Frantz Fanon served as her muses.
The show commenced with a flawlessly tailored redingote crafted from fine wool, featuring a striking white collar, and culminated with two magnificent tuxedos. Each piece epitomized the Black artists’ quest to transcend the pervasive racism of their time. Bonner seamlessly blended high-end tailoring with a touch of sporty style, showcasing her ability to combine diverse elements harmoniously. Her collaboration with Adidas resulted in microfiber shirts and tops adorned with a new WB logo.
Significantly, Bonner also incorporated women’s wear into her collection, presenting halter neck knit dresses, grommeted skirts, and jackets and blazers embroidered with shell motifs. Notably, 16-year-old Raee Kebede, daughter of renowned runway model Liya Kebede, donned one of Bonner’s contrasting blazers. The show took place at the prestigious Hotel d’Evreux, nestled in the northwest corner of Place Vendôme, symbolizing the heart of European luxury.
Titled “Reverie,” the collection served as a meditation on a diverse group of artists of color who drew inspiration from and influenced French culture. At a time when conservative mainstream media often ridicules woke culture and the Black Lives Matter movement, Bonner’s runway collection served as a vital proclamation of humanism. It received rapturous applause, signifying a personal triumph for the designer and an unparalleled expression of post-colonial style in fashion.
All in all, Grace Wales Bonner’s showcase in Paris showcased her aptitude for marrying historical inspiration with groundbreaking design. Her collection paid homage to black artists who left an indelible mark on post-war Paris, while making a resounding statement about representation and inclusivity in the fashion industry.
Useful links:
1. Grace Wales Bonner Official Website
2. Grace Wales Bonner on Vogue UK
