Pucci, the esteemed Italian luxury label, is enjoying a newfound wave of triumph thanks to the implementation of a groundbreaking business model that defies conventional industry practices. The brand, which was fully acquired by LVMH in 2021, underwent a comprehensive reorganization and introduced a new strategy that embraces innovation and breaks away from traditional seasonal cycles. Under new leadership, Pucci has achieved a revitalization that not only pays homage to its rich heritage but also showcases a vibrant, resort-inspired aesthetic.
One of the initial steps taken by LVMH was the appointment of Camille Miceli as the head of style for Pucci. Miceli, who joined the brand in 2021, unveiled her debut collection in 2022. Joining her in the reimagined executive team are Saar Debrouwere as the managing director and Norman Lemay in charge of communication and marketing efforts. With a focus on reconnecting with Pucci’s founding principles, the brand now centers its approach around a resort-inspired aesthetic that combines a zest for life with lightweight, vibrant materials.
Pucci has identified an untapped market segment with few competitors, allowing the brand to showcase its unique summer and beachwear collections, as well as its winter collections with a skiing theme. The brand reintroduced the winter line, which had been discontinued, in collaboration with Fusalp in December. This strategic move allows Pucci to leverage its rich history, particularly its roots in the United States, where the brand gained recognition through an iconic photo published in Harper’s Bazaar in 1948.
To kickstart the creative process, Miceli delved into the Pucci archives, drawing inspiration from the label’s most iconic prints. The psychedelic motifs of the 1960s and 70s, such as Marmo, Iride, Fiamme, and Pesci patterns, were reintroduced in fresh colorways and variations. Pucci’s style has been injected with new life through modernized cuts, silhouettes, and wearable designs. The brand’s eclectic range includes standout pieces like short dresses, flowing tunics, caftans, scarf-tops, and genderless items like trousers, Bermuda shorts, sweatshirts, and swimming trunks. Accessories have also taken center stage, with the introduction of playful handbags, hats, and other fun items like pool noodles and inflatable chairs, all in the signature Pucci aesthetic. Demonstrating a commitment to year-round offerings, Pucci recently included denim items in its collection for the first time, providing a comprehensive wardrobe for its customers.
In addition to its brand refresh, Pucci adopted a new, streamlined logo and simplified its name to Pucci. The new logo, featuring two intertwined fish forming a capital P, was inspired by a label discovered in the 1953 Capri Sport archives. Departing from the traditional fashion calendar, Pucci embraced a non-traditional approach by favoring experiential presentations and unique events instead of typical fashion week shows. The brand’s recent outdoor show on the banks of the Arno River in Florence exemplifies this creative strategy, aiming to evoke a festive and laid-back atmosphere.
Alongside its new creative direction, Pucci has also reimagined its commercial strategy. The brand now follows a “see now, buy now” format, making collections available for purchase either on the day of their presentation or at strategic times to meet customer demand. This shift reflects the evolving consumer behavior, as customers increasingly base their purchases on seasonal needs rather than making advance orders as they did in the past. Pucci’s winter collections are now available from September to February, with half of the range delivered starting in September. For summer collections, availability spans between March and August. To accommodate this approach, a portion of the collection was delivered to the Florence store just before the recent show, where the store was transformed for the occasion.
While Pucci maintains its position in the luxury segment, the brand has elevated its image to cement itself as a true luxury label. This involved reducing the overall product range and focusing on creating a sense of exclusivity through rarity. Pucci has also scaled back its network of multibrand retailers, halving the number of wholesale clients to 75. The brand is now concentrating its efforts on major cities and selective retail distribution, positioning itself among the most prominent luxury labels.
When it comes to monobrand stores, Pucci’s focus has shifted to trendy Mediterranean seaside resorts, including Saint-Tropez in France and Portofino and Capri in Italy. To test the local market, the brand recently opened a temporary store in the prestigious resort of Forte dei Marmi on the Tuscan coast for a two-year period. Currently, Pucci operates 11 directly owned monobrand stores and six franchised stores in Italy, London, the USA, and Asia. Europe, North America, and the Middle East remain the brand’s primary markets, with potential plans for pop-up stores in leading department stores.
With its updated business model and fresh approach to creativity, Pucci has successfully revitalized the brand. By embracing its rich heritage, reimagining its style, and challenging industry norms, Pucci has carved out a unique position for itself in the luxury market. With a focus on year-round collections and a selective retail approach, the brand is well-positioned for continued success and growth.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue – Emilio Pucci
2. Official Emilio Pucci Website
