Prada, under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, continues to push boundaries and innovate in the fashion industry. Their latest collection, which was recently showcased in Milan, combines elements of light, haze, and fluidity to create a truly unique and defiant aesthetic.
Rather than resting on the success of their previous collection in 2022, Miuccia and Raf decided to experiment with extraordinary technical fabrics that resembled smoke due to their lightweight nature. The runway was adorned with hyper-modern styles presented against a backdrop of transparent glue, a concept they had previously explored in their menswear show last June. In addition to these innovative fabrics, the duo introduced new silhouettes, including jackets with ascending V-shapes and oversized hunting parkas. The atelier was bustling with beautifully embroidered cocktails and sequin-covered skirts adorned with crystals and bugle beads.
Miuccia emphasized their focus on clothes rather than concepts, stating, “That’s our job and what we care about.” This sentiment was evident in their use of “haze materials,” which resulted in ethereal dresses that appeared to be untouchable. Fringed miniskirts floated down the runway, showcasing Prada’s dedication to lightweight, nylon flou. Simons further explained that the intention was to challenge the technicality of embroidery and decoration, highlighting that Prada relies on the quality of its work to speak for itself rather than lengthy press releases.
The collection also featured a revamped tote-style bag named ‘1913,’ paying homage to Prada’s heritage and originally developed by Miuccia’s grandfather. It instantly felt like an It Bag, drawing inspiration from the previous menswear show while incorporating feminine touches through decoration and detailing.
The show received a standing ovation from a star-studded audience, including Scarlett Johansson, Dominique Cumberbatch, and various K Pop stars. There were doubts about Miuccia’s level of engagement as she took on a new role as director of the Fondazione Prada and announced a new steering committee just weeks prior to the show. However, this collection proves that Miuccia remains deeply committed to fashion and thoroughly enjoys her work.
The show also marked the departure of Fabio Zambernardi, who served as Prada’s design director for three decades. Raf and Miuccia graciously bid farewell alongside Fabio. Zambernardi leaves behind a brand in excellent health, with significant increases in sales and net profit in 2022. Prada has also made significant strides in digital sales, which now account for 7% of turnover.
Despite these achievements, Prada’s market cap of $15 billion may seem relatively low compared to its annual revenues. However, this show is expected to substantially boost its market value. At the midpoint of the international runway season, Prada’s collection stands out as the most relevant, modern, and influential so far. With their continued innovation and dedication to craftsmanship, Prada is poised for even greater success in the future.
Useful links:
1. Prada Official Website
2. Vogue Fashion Shows
