Hussein Chalayan, the visionary designer known for his intellectually stimulating creations in UK menswear, has once again captivated audiences with his spring/summer 2020 collection that delves deep into the impact of foreign powers on colonized countries. This season, Chalayan showcased his thought-provoking designs in a unique outdoor setting outside his flagship store in London, setting the stage for a discourse on the changes in clothing and style brought about by colonialism.
The collection featured impeccably tailored suits, flowing trousers, and wide-cuffed shirts that drew inspiration from colonial styles across different cultures. By seamlessly blending elements from various colonized regions, Chalayan crafted a collection that artfully portrayed the nuances of postcolonialism.
In his program notes, Chalayan delved into the mesmerizing allure of exoticized bodies, shedding light on how colonialism not only influenced clothing but also movement. Prints featuring instructions for Tango steps and a fusion of different ethnicities in a Japanese garden served as poignant reminders of the intricate ways in which foreign occupation shapes cultural practices.
Titled ‘Post Colonial Body’, Chalayan’s collection was a visual exploration of South American dance forms and the sartorial changes instigated by colonial rule. Drawing parallels to the impact of colonization in Japan, Chalayan masterfully illustrated the lasting effects of foreign encroachment on a nation’s cultural identity.
The garments in the collection exuded the confidence of colonial-era style while incorporating the fluidity and dynamism of dance movements. From earth-toned shirts and jackets adorned with elastic embellishments to prints that celebrated cultural fusion, Chalayan’s designs made a bold statement that echoed with historical significance and modern-day relevance.
As the collection was unveiled amidst the brisk London air, Chalayan’s signature theatrical flair was evident with the presence of two stealthily clad Ninjas orchestrating the occasional arrival of Ubers and black cabs outside the store. This whimsical addition added an air of intrigue to the overall presentation, further reinforcing the narrative of foreign influences on culture as seen through the lens of Chalayan’s postcolonial style.
To explore more about the impact of colonialism on fashion and culture, check out these informative resources:
Victoria and Albert Museum – Hussein Chalayan Collection
Encyclopedia Britannica – Colonialism
