Pierre Cardin: Time Capsule Chic – A Revival Show with Nostalgic Appeal
It’s hard not to develop a fondness for Pierre Cardin, especially with the brand’s recent revival show led by Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, the late designer’s nephew. Despite the controversies that have surrounded Cardin in recent years, this latest show proved to be a memorable event.
Pierre Cardin was undeniably a groundbreaking fashion creator who embodied the essence of capitalism. With an astonishing portfolio of over 600 licenses at one point, he was the first designer to establish a truly global brand. For his latest showcase, Rodrigo chose a venue that added a touch of irony and nostalgia – the historic headquarters of the French Communist Party, designed by Oscar Niemeyer.
The spring/summer 2023 collection presented a medley of classic Cardin looks, paying homage to his revolutionary designs of the early 60s. The highlight of the show was a series of short, colorful intarsia dresses that cut halfway up the thigh. These pieces beautifully merged the vibrant styles of swinging London and St Germain. Not only were they highly wearable, but they also had the potential to make a splash on social media platforms like Instagram. With some strategic merchandising, a Cardin renaissance may be on the horizon.
The show also celebrated Cardin’s futuristic aesthetic, featuring space-age plastic tunics, Star Trek jackets, and a plethora of metallic trim. A standout piece was a shiny emerald-green space dracula cape that captured Cardin’s avant-garde sensibilities. Models sported Destination Moon visor glasses and a striking blue band of face paint across their eyes, adding an extra touch of otherworldly allure. Blue dominated the runway, even illuminating the ceiling of the main council chamber in the party’s headquarters.
Rodrigo, who has a background in engineering, embraced his role as creative director and breathed new life into Cardin’s legacy. He meticulously draped and curled yards of silk to create extravagant gowns that pushed the boundaries of design. “It was a chance to express what Cardin is all about,” Rodrigo stated while dressed in one of his uncle’s iconic blazers, featuring a distinct cut and wide vents.
The showcase attracted the attention of serious middle-aged men in dark blue suits, likely the licensors responsible for building Cardin’s multi-million euro fortune, as estimated by Forbes. Notably, two princesses, Carolina and Chiara Bourbon de Sicile, graced the front row alongside their proud mother, Princess Camilla, the Duchess of Castro. Carolina dazzled in an Aegean blue organza gown with a petal neckline, while Chiara opted for a light green moiré silk cocktail dress held together by a Yves Klein blue disk at the back. Rodrigo expressed his excitement in his new role, proclaiming, “We order yards and yards of silk, and then just began playing.”
The Pierre Cardin show served as a time capsule of chic fashion, featuring both the designer’s iconic creations and a glimpse into the future. With Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin taking the helm as creative director, the brand has the potential to captivate a new generation of fashion enthusiasts. Only time will tell if a Cardin renaissance is on the horizon, but this show undoubtedly made a lasting impression on the fashion world.
Useful links:
1. Official Pierre Cardin Website
2. Vogue Fashion Shows Coverage
