Phoebe Philo, the renowned fashion designer known for her work at Chloé and Celine, has finally launched her own label, further solidifying her status as a creative force in the industry. The release of her highly anticipated collection has received overwhelming praise from critics, who believe that Philo has seamlessly picked up where she left off six years ago when she departed from Celine. With support from LVMH as a minority owner, the collection offers high-end ready-to-wear clothing, footwear, and accessories, and is currently exclusively available for purchase on the Phoebe Philo webstore.
The collection proudly showcases Philo’s signature blend of masculine and feminine aesthetics, captivating audiences with its understated elegance. The color palette, featuring off-white, oxblood, black, brown, and red, sets the tone for the collection’s refined and versatile pieces. Among the standout designs are tailored garments, luxurious knitwear, flowing silhouettes, oversized shirts, and wide-leg trousers that beautifully accentuate the waist. Textured dresses, roomy leather bombers adorned with tassels, flight jackets with cinched waists, cargo pieces, trenches, and a mix of body-skimming and oversized cuts are also prominent in the collection.
While some of the items come with stratospheric price tags, such as a hand-knitted T-shirt dress in iridescent stucco priced at £13,000 and an XL Cabas bag at £6,200, the collection also offers more affordable options for fashion enthusiasts. For instance, there is a hand-combed embroidered dress priced at £2,600, a scarf top priced at £1,400, a slate grey pinstripe shirt priced at £800, and sunglasses starting at £340. The development of this collection spanned over a period of two years and arrives at a challenging time for the fashion and luxury sectors. However, despite these obstacles, the ultra-luxury pieces by Phoebe Philo have already achieved sell-out status, as seen in the recent success of Hermès in the ultra-luxury market.
The collection is divided into different edits, with the first edit, A1, featuring 150 styles. These styles will be released in three phases on the webstore, beginning on October 30 and continuing over the following months. The initial delivery of each edit is expected to be the most significant in terms of volume. The second edit, A2, will be available in spring 2024. Despite launching in the autumn/winter season, the collection’s 150 individual pieces feel relatively season-neutral, offering wearable designs that stray away from the conceptually unwearable pieces often seen on the runway. Notably, the collection also includes combed viscose shaggy coats that rival the construction time typically associated with couture pieces.
The shoes and accessories in the collection hold great importance, acting as points of interaction between the brand and its consumers. While the oversized totes may come with hefty price tags, simpler shoulder bags and the Small Kit Cabas, which have already sold out in one color, have more attainable price points ranging from £2,600 to £3,200. The footwear selection features square-toed heeled pumps, loafers, ankle boots, and platform Jodhpur Boots, all priced between £850 and £1,250.
Overall, Philo’s new collection embodies the concept of “not-so-quiet” quiet luxury, reminiscent of The Row but infused with Philo’s unique style and vision. As the fashion industry and luxury sector navigate through challenging times, the launch of Philo’s brand and the overwhelmingly positive response from consumers and critics alike serve as a testament to her enduring appeal and influence in the fashion world.
For more information on Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label and to shop the collection, visit the [Phoebe Philo webstore](https://www.phoebephilo.com/).
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