Philippe Camperio, the French-Italian businessman who revitalized Borsalino, has shared insights into the strategy and goals of his new luxury holding company, ChimHaeres. With 75 million euros in assets under management, Camperio founded ChimHaeres in partnership with Emirati investment company Chimera. As the current managing director, Camperio reveals his plans, which include a potential stock market listing by 2027-2028 and the revival of the historic Vionnet fashion house, which has recently joined ChimHaeres.
Camperio’s journey into the fashion industry began after his experience in mergers and acquisitions and private equity as a consultant. He co-founded an investment boutique in Geneva in 2013 but later decided to focus on lifestyle investments with Borsalino in 2015. With his personal holding company, Haeres Capital, Camperio acquired stakes in luxury brands such as Fogal and also undertook a prestigious real estate project. Drawing on his expertise, he developed a business model centered around identifying heritage brands in need of growth or restructuring.
ChimHaeres, launched in March 2022, is a joint venture between Haeres Capital and Chimera. Haeres Capital contributed its stakes in brands like Borsalino, while Chimera brought a strategic vision and a cash investment of 75 million euros. Currently, ChimHaeres owns four brands: Vionnet, Borsalino, Fogal, and Zagato, with a consolidated turnover of around forty million euros. The company’s headquarters are based in Abu Dhabi, with operational offices in Geneva and Milan.
Discussing the acquisition of Vionnet, Camperio reveals that the brand was purchased from its former owner, Goga Ashkenazi, in 2018. He aims to relaunch Vionnet with a new business model inspired by the legacy and values of its founder, Madeleine Vionnet. The brand’s revival will center on sustainability, women’s liberation, and addressing the fashion industry’s environmental impact. While specific details are still being developed, Camperio promises an innovative and disruptive approach.
Regarding ChimHaeres’ overall strategy, Camperio explains that the company aims to acquire majority stakes in heritage brands and offer minority stakes to co-investors. By pooling resources and leveraging their management team’s expertise, ChimHaeres strives to provide high-level skills and support at a fraction of the cost. The company actively seeks new targets in Europe and Switzerland, with three brands currently under analysis and several others in the pipeline.
To fund future acquisitions, Camperio plans to open ChimHaeres Holding’s capital to new investors once enough opportunities have been gathered. Additionally, the company aims to list ChimHaeres on the stock exchange, with a dual listing target in Abu Dhabi and Milan by 2027-2028. Camperio believes that a portfolio of eight to ten brands representing 500 million euros in assets is necessary to achieve this goal. The company will continue to restructure and strengthen its brands’ management while prioritizing sustainability and cost control.
Camperio believes that thinking outside the box is key to success in today’s luxury market. He places value on capsule collections, collaborations, and unconventional distribution channels. The hotel industry, in particular, is seen as an essential avenue for brand expansion. With ambitious plans and a strong team, ChimHaeres aims to build a diversified investment holding company in the luxury industry, focusing on long-term ownership and proactive development for each of its brands.
Useful links:
1. ChimHaeres Official Website
2. Borsalino Official Website
