Paul Smith recently unveiled his latest collection in Paris, which showcased a variety of styles ranging from Mod to military. Drawing inspiration from his own archives, the British designer sought to dress young men in a classic yet non-restrictive manner after two years of casual Covid dressing.
The collection featured wide-cut trousers, suits paired with cargo pants, and unconstructed jackets with military influences and no padding. As a unique touch, the trousers were adorned with stirrups and little Vs at the back to elongate the silhouette. Smith aimed to challenge the perception of suits, emphasizing that they can be worn by anyone, including young individuals, actors, or red carpet attendees, and are not solely reserved for weddings, funerals, or job interviews.
What distinguishes Smith’s approach to tailoring is his ability to blend styles and silhouettes from the 60s with the contemporary fashion landscape. This fusion of past and present is further enhanced by his innovative use of fabrics, many of which are sourced from the UK. The collection featured a mix of materials, including alfresco wool, tonic, iridescence, and mohair reminiscent of the Mod era. Additionally, the show incorporated a touch of humor, with some models appearing as if they had forgotten to put on their pants.
One standout feature of the collection was the creation of a Venetian blind effect through a combination of pants and waistcoats. Smith drew inspiration for this idea while lying in bed at his Tuscan villa, admiring the way light filtered into the room. The show also included workwear jackets in tonic mohair, military-inspired pieces in iridescent wools, and messenger coats previously used on military motorbikes. The diagonal-cut pockets on these coats allowed for easy access to letters and arms.
The show took place in an old atelier at the back of the Gare de Lyon and concluded with a visually striking shirt featuring a photoshopped mash-up of black and white prints. The design for this shirt was created by photographing old prints from Smith’s extensive archive of over 3,000 looks. Another noteworthy piece was a dynamic photoshop collage print trench coat that showcased abstract daubs, each hand-painted. Throughout the show, Smith’s love for bows was evident, as he playfully interacted with the models while wearing a blue windowpane check suit, pretending to throw alms in the form of gifts.
Overall, Paul Smith’s latest collection exemplified his talent for reinterpreting classic styles and silhouettes, infusing them with a fresh and contemporary twist. Through his meticulous attention to detail and innovative use of fabrics, Smith continues to push the boundaries of traditional tailoring, creating garments that are both stylish and individualistic.
Useful links:
1. Paul Smith Official Website
2. Vogue Fashion Show Coverage
