During Paris Fashion Week, fashion brands Paul Smith and Officine Générale stole the show with their impeccable tailoring and unique design aesthetics. Sir Paul Smith, renowned for his 80s-inspired designs, presented a collection that flawlessly integrated workwear and leisurewear. Meanwhile, Pierre Mahéo, the founder of Officine Générale, showcased a French chic lineup that explored volumes and fluidity.
Officine Générale surprised the audience with a newfound sense of maturity in their Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Mahéo showcased relaxed and accessible tailored pieces that incorporated voluminous and fluid fabrics. The color palette varied from deep black to celadon green, espresso brown, sand, and pale pink, creating a casual yet elegant ambience. The audience was captivated by the materials chosen and the impeccable craftsmanship displayed in the men’s jackets and pants. These key pieces were paired with light tone-on-tone shirts or striped tops, adding a subtle touch of sophistication.
The collection aimed to cater to both seaside and desert environments, as models adorned large silk scarves tied around their necks or in their hair. Skin-tight sweaters, cardigans, dresses, pants, and hoodies cinched with drawstrings were also seen, reflecting the brand’s versatility. Leather sandals, nubuck mules, and monochromatic low top sneakers completed the looks. This collection showcased Officine Générale’s commitment to exploring new volumes and materials in menswear, expanding their product range and offering wider cuts without compromising on fluidity and style.
Mahéo mentioned that the inclusion of women’s collections has allowed the brand to evolve from its menswear roots. This expansion has introduced new colors and experimentation with silk and wider pants. The womenswear offerings are more sophisticated and better constructed than ever before, providing a wider range of options. Officine Générale plans to open seven new stores, including two in Los Angeles and another in New York, with the support of American investment firm, The Untitled Group. The brand is experiencing substantial success, particularly in the United States, and is excited about future growth opportunities.
On the other hand, Paul Smith showcased his expertise in tailoring with a collection that paid homage to the 80s without relying on nostalgia. The British designer crafted lightweight suits that emitted a relaxed beach vibe. The show took place in a condemned post office and featured numerous zippers and artistic references, from flowy coats to perfectly tailored suits with air-brushed rust effect finishes. The collection was characterized by contemporary colors such as lavender, pale grey, pistachio, and a striking dull navy blue. Jungle print coats and dress shirts were also present, adding an element of excitement to the collection.
Sir Paul drew inspiration from gallery visits and 80s art installations, resulting in pieces that featured liquid fabrics wrapping around the torso, wide lapels, and notched low collars. The collection successfully translated a day in an art gallery into wearable clothing, and Sir Paul expressed his satisfaction with the outcome. The show concluded with sweaters printed with colors reminiscent of Mark Rothko’s art, leaving a lasting impression on the audience.
Both Paul Smith and Officine Générale showcased that tailoring is making a comeback, but in lighter and more wearable weights. Their collections displayed impeccable craftsmanship, attention to detail, and a unique blend of sophistication and ease. As fashion enthusiasts eagerly embrace these timeless yet contemporary designs, the future looks promising for these two fashion powerhouses.
Useful Links:
1. Paul Smith Official Website
2. Officine Générale Official Website
