Paris menswear took center stage on Friday as fashion enthusiasts flocked to various shows across the city. The day was filled with a lineup of exciting and diverse collections, starting with Paul Smith’s show at a disused post office. This was followed by Dior Men’s runway show set in a recreation of Christian Dior’s family villa in Granville, Normandy, and concluded with Comme des Garçons’ unconventional presentation.
Dior Men’s show, titled “Gardening in Granville, thinking of Charleston,” transported guests to the roots of Christian Dior himself. The collection embodied a horticultural chic aesthetic, featuring rural gent suits, gardener’s aprons, and knits with embroidered groundskeeper designs. The influence of British post-Impressionist painter Duncan Grant was evident in the intarsia sweatshirts and shorts. The collection showcased a blend of utilitarian and natural elements with stylized New Look and Duncan Grant artworks, creating a unique fusion of casual and formal styles.
Kim Jones, the creative director of Dior Men, drew inspiration from his visit to Charleston at the age of 14, where Duncan Grant and his partner Vanessa Bell lived an artistic and bohemian lifestyle. Jones incorporated new tailoring techniques, including double lapels and sleek double-breasted suits. The show was accompanied by a curated soundtrack and attended by British celebrities David Beckham and Naomi Campbell, adding to the overall excitement.
Comme des Garçons’ show embraced the concept of the clown, incorporating humor and nostalgia into the collection. Models wore freakish face masks and had towering hairdos. The collection featured boyish shorts, tetrahedral-cut pants, and harlequin patches. Despite its eccentricity, the collection exuded a unique beauty rarely seen in menswear. The show was held in an abandoned office building near the Opera, creating an atmosphere of mystery and intrigue.
Paul Smith presented an 80s-inspired collection that embraced lightweight tailoring perfect for summer. The show took place in a condemned post office and featured arty references like floating dusters, trenches, and suits with rusty airbrush finishes. The collection showcased a modern color palette mixed with jungle print coats and party shirts. Sir Paul Smith drew inspiration from art galleries, installations, and airbrushing techniques. The show concluded with a playful gesture from Sir Paul himself, as he handed out socks and erupted in laughter.
Overall, Paris menswear Friday was a day filled with creativity, innovation, and surprises. Each show showcased the unique vision and talent of its respective designer. It was a celebration of fashion merging with art, and the collections displayed a wide range of styles, from the horticultural chic of Dior Men to the eccentricity of Comme des Garçons and the vibrant 80s-inspired collection from Paul Smith.
Useful Links:
1. Paul Smith Spring 2022 Menswear Collection
2. Comme des Garçons Spring 2022 Menswear Collection
