The highly anticipated Paris menswear season is taking place this week, marking a significant moment as the city returns to normalcy following the lifting of lockdown restrictions. With six live runway shows and over 20 presentations, Paris is staging a larger number of physical events compared to previous menswear seasons in London and Milan.
The lineup of brands showcasing their collections on the runway is impressive and diverse. From luxury stalwarts such as Hermès and Dior Men to emerging labels like Bluemarble and Officine Générale, the Paris menswear season promises a rich tapestry of styles and inspirations. Notable mentions include Casablanca, known for its vibrant prints and relaxed aesthetic, and LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, a rising star in the fashion scene.
The opening show of the season will be presented by Wales Bonner, a talented designer who won the prestigious LVMH Prize in the past. Known for her innovative tailoring, Bonner’s collection sets the tone for what is to come. The grand finale of the Paris menswear season belongs to 1017 Alyx 9SM, the brainchild of Matthew Williams. With his avant-garde designs and unique artistic vision, Williams is expected to deliver a showstopping closing act.
Alongside the live runway shows, numerous brands will be presenting their collections through physical presentations. This format allows invited guests to interact with designers in showrooms and see the clothes on live models, creating a more immersive experience. Pascal Morand, executive vice president of the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, emphasizes the significance of showcasing in Paris, as the city continues to be recognized as the fashion capital with considerable global impact.
While some major fashion houses will be absent from the Paris menswear calendar, the seepage is considerably less compared to Milan and London. Morand attributes this to the innovative and adaptable nature of brands during the health crisis, as well as Paris’s strong connection with the digital revolution. The city’s position as the digital capital of fashion has helped brands navigate challenges and maintain their presence in the industry.
Looking ahead, there are exciting events bridging the gap between the menswear season and the forthcoming Paris haute couture season in July. Jacquemus will unveil its collection through an event called “La Montagne,” which will be immediately available online. Meanwhile, Off-White plans to hold a show in Paris, aligning with its American roots and the city’s prestigious fashion status.
In a bid to address sustainability concerns, the Federation has launched eco-initiatives in collaboration with PricewaterhouseCoopers and accredited houses. These initiatives aim to measure the environmental and social impact of each brand’s show and collection production, providing transparent information about the ecological footprint of Paris Fashion Week. The results will be published in September, ahead of the next women’s ready-to-wear season.
Looking toward the future, Elsa Lanzo, CEO of Rick Owens and the current president of the menswear section of the Federation, foresees a predominantly physical presence with strict sanitary measures for the September season. It is anticipated that approximately 100 brands will participate in shows and presentations, signaling a positive outlook for the industry’s recovery. Despite the uncertainties surrounding the Delta variant, Lanzo remains optimistic about the resilience of the fashion industry.
Overall, the Paris menswear season is a symbol of hope and resilience, showcasing the adaptability and creativity of designers. The combination of live runway shows and physical presentations creates a sense of celebration and anticipation for the future of fashion. It signifies a tentative return to normalcy, providing a glimpse of what the industry has in store as it bounces back from the challenges posed by the pandemic.
Useful links:
– Vogue: Paris Menswear Week 2022
– Business of Fashion: 6 Trends Shaping the Menswear Market
