Paris Menswear Day Four was an exhilarating whirlwind of fashion, as we embarked on a city-wide tour to catch up with some of the biggest names in the industry. The day started with Jil Sander’s stunning diabolical mode collection, held within the grand American Cathedral in Paris. The collection showcased a perfect blend of masculine tailoring with feminine detailing, featuring lace and crocheted inserts. The color palette revolved around deep shades of black, putty, burnt orange, and ecru, elevated by luxurious fabrics such as cashmere herringbones and sleek tuxedo wool. Standout pieces included elegant funnel-neck coats, cozy sweaters, stylish cotton blouses, and even astrological sign-adorned pajamas. Adding a utilitarian touch to the overall look were chunky boots, rectangular tool bag-style shoulder cases, and oversized totes. Lucie and Luke Meier, the talented design duo behind the collection, humbly took their bow before disappearing backstage.
Next on the agenda was the highly anticipated menswear collection by British designer Paul Smith. Instead of a traditional runway show, Smith decided to showcase his collection through a captivating nine-minute video, drawing inspiration from the Nouvelle Vague movement and indie cinema icons. Film lovers were in for a treat, as the collection featured silk and cotton shirts with graphic interpretations of sixties French movie posters, paying homage to the modernity and impact of the classic film “Breathless.” Smith’s love for cinema extended to incorporating blue washes reminiscent of David Lynch films and a statement oversized Prince of Wales double-breasted jacket reminiscent of “The Man Who Fell to Earth.” Hand-knit cable sweaters, cozy caps, and scarves showcased the wonderful craftsmanship of chunky knits handmade in Scotland. And no Paul Smith collection would be complete without a touch of playful nostalgia, as plaid trousers with unexpected inverted pleats and snug shearling jackets added a cinematic flair. Sir Paul himself spoke of the influence of filmmakers like Jean-Luc Godard, who inspired him to pursue his passion for fashion.
A visit to Isabel Marant’s showroom provided a much-needed moment of respite after days of nonstop menswear shows. However, while the showroom exuded retro-modern panache with its magnificent leather couches, the collection itself fell short of Marant’s signature zing. Chunky and comfortable woolens dominated the collection, but failed to deliver the expected cool factor. Yet, there were a few notable highlights, including denim looks with apache motifs, workerist over-shirts and blousons, and cracked marble print jeans. The real saving grace of the collection was the excellent high-top sneakers, which offered a male version of Isabel’s popular female sneakers.
Jeanerica, a Swedish brand renowned for its love of denim, concluded the day with a collection that celebrated the versatility and appeal of the democratic fabric. Founded by a former Acne staffer and Scandinavian fashion expert, Jeanerica impressed with slim-line shapes made from high-quality Italian denim. The jeans, blousons, and safari jackets were both sturdy and supple, thanks to the brand’s commitment to sustainable production processes in Turkey. The collection featured a variety of colors, including bleu de nuit, pacific blue, bright ecru, and washed azure. Additionally, Jeanerica introduced unique sweatshirts created from a combination of recycled and reused cotton, resulting in a foamy hand and finish that set them apart. The brand’s dedication to European denim was evident in their impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail.
In summary, Paris Menswear Day Four offered a captivating range of collections that emphasized the creativity and craftsmanship of some of the industry’s most esteemed designers. From Jil Sander’s diabolical mode to Paul Smith’s cinematic inspirations, Isabel Marant’s subtle moments, and Jeanerica’s undeniable love for denim, the day was a rollercoaster of fashion experiences.
Useful Links:
– Jil Sander
– Paul Smith
