Paris Haute Couture Week began with a dazzling display of talent and creativity as three esteemed designers presented their contrasting visions of couture. The first designer to take the virtual stage was Schiaparelli, who transported viewers to the bullring with their collection titled “Matador Couture.” The collection featured a surreal mix of elements, such as a sleeveless satin moiré dress in a vibrant yellow hue reminiscent of the sand in the bullring. Adorned with brass and woven passementerie bosoms and accessorized with oversized evil-eye earrings, the outfit set the tone for the eccentric yet luxurious collection. Other standout pieces included patchwork ensembles exuding baroque splendor, cocoon coats featuring jacquard and denim fabrics, and art deco-inspired platforms. Notable mentions were a densely woven crystal jacket and an intricately embroidered jacket embellished with fabric roses.
Next up was Azzaro, renowned for its high-octane glamor. Designer Olivier Theyskens breathed new life into the brand by delving into its archives during the lockdown period. Theyskens’ exploration of the brand’s rich history resulted in a collection that paid homage to Azzaro’s alternative materials and oversized sequins, while incorporating gothic elements. Models strutted the runway in coats adorned with “clunky sequins” that glistened under the lights, as well as broad-shouldered trouser suits resembling shattered glass. The collection also featured asymmetrical cocktails and sexy tops embellished with strips of Plexiglas over caviar micro pearls. Theyskens successfully captured the essence of Azzaro’s opulent aesthetic while infusing his own gothic touch.
Lastly, Giambattista Valli surprised audiences with a departure from his signature romantic style. Presented in the grandeur of a monumental New Brutalism structure, Valli’s collection showcased a renewed focus on draping, tailoring, and intricate detailing. The designs transported viewers to a fantasy world, with candy-floss pink feathered columns, femme fatale double-breasted suits, and mammoth chiffon gowns boasting four-meter trains. Models strutted confidently against concrete walls and rooftops in dramatic crepe cocktails featuring oversized organza fan-shaped shoulders. Topped off with outrageous Barbie doll wigs and futuristic hairstyles, the collection was a visual spectacle. Valli also introduced menswear to his lineup, featuring elegant calico suits, voluminous priestly soutanes, and tuxedo shirts adorned with marabou feathers.
Overall, the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week was a testament to the artistry, creativity, and innovation of these three renowned designers. Schiaparelli, Azzaro, and Giambattista Valli each presented their unique interpretations of couture, showcasing a mix of decadence, daring designs, and a renewed appreciation for the craftsmanship behind high fashion. Fashion enthusiasts eagerly await the rest of the week, anticipating more exciting showcases that will continue to push the boundaries of haute couture.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue: Paris Couture Week Autumn/Winter 2021 – Day One
2. Harper’s Bazaar: The Best Looks from Paris Haute Couture Fall 2021
