Paris haute couture has long been associated with its world-class fashion, but this season, it was the jewelry that truly stole the spotlight. The weeklong event was filled with a plethora of jewelry launches, exhibitions, and displays, showcasing the growing prominence of the jewelry business. Luxury brands like Boucheron and Louis Vuitton proudly showcased their exquisite creations alongside smaller jewelry displays throughout the city.
The jewelry extravaganza began and ended with major statements from fashion powerhouses Chanel and Fendi. Chanel kicked off the week with a five-day pop-up exposition at the exquisite Grand Palais Éphémère, dedicated to showcasing Coco Chanel’s iconic Bijoux de Diamants collection from 1922. This exclusive event, which required an invitation, featured stunning installations of sapphire and opal comets, solar moon diamond rings, and byzantine brooches. Adding to the allure, the expo was complemented by Coromandel screens and furniture from Coco’s personal collection. The event concluded with a lavish, high-security dinner, where guests were serenaded by a live jazz band. However, the brand faced a minor hiccup as even the wealthiest fashion house struggled to serve warm food to its esteemed guests, leaving some bewildered.
For those in search of cooler and more contemporary jewelry designs, Delfina Delettrez Fendi presented her latest creation at Place von Furstenberg. Guests were greeted by a single silver ice cream cone adorned with mini diamonds, evoking nostalgic memories of joyful moments. To enhance the overall experience, Delettrez served real ice cream to her delighted guests. The event also featured a talented rock guitarist playing soothing ballads from a perch in Delfina’s private Paris apartment, creating an effortlessly cool and relaxed atmosphere.
One jewelry concept that stood out was Mené, introduced by Diana Picasso, the granddaughter of the renowned painter. Mené is an innovative online brand that charges clients based on the exact raw material price of their gold or platinum purchases, along with a design fee. The prices on Mené’s website fluctuate in accordance with the market value of gold, ensuring fair pricing for customers. With an impressive annual turnover of $30 million, Mené has garnered a dedicated following by offering exquisite link chains, pendants inspired by Giacometti, stylish rope-shaped rings, and even a gold or platinum chess set.
Renowned stylist and jeweler Samuel François captivated audiences with his Surrealist designs showcased in a gallery in Marais. His collection boasted enamel rings adorned with piercing eyes, gold chain pendants, brooches, and bracelets adorned with intricate metal flowers. François also introduced bold statement pieces like Dali-esque mouth pendants, cheetah rings accentuated with lilac enamel, and bronze leaf-shaped brooches. After a successful virtual pop-up on Moda Operandi last season, it is evident that Samuel François is a brand on the rise in the world of jewelry.
Hermès took an innovative approach to unveil their new high-end jewelry collection, “Les Jeux de l’Ombre” (The Play of Shadows), designed by Pierre Hardy. This captivating collection seamlessly blended Art Deco and baroque elements, featuring pavé diamond rings and necklaces adorned with titanium, black spinels, and dazzling sapphires. To add an artistic touch, the launch was accompanied by a mesmerizing mini concert performance inside the La Gâité Lyrique theatre.
Fendi closed the haute couture week with a breathtaking jewelry collection inspired by the concept of a Fendi Flavus, or blond. The collection showcased an array of necklaces, earrings, and cocktail rings meticulously designed as cascading geometric assemblages of stones. The jewelry flawlessly complemented Kim Jones’ caramel-colored vicuna suits and deerskin ensembles, creating a harmonious fusion of fashion and jewelry.
This season’s Paris haute couture event proved that jewelry has undeniably become a significant player in the industry. From Chanel’s grand celebration of Coco Chanel’s Bijoux de Diamants collection to Fendi’s stunning and contemporary jewelry creations, the weeklong extravaganza showcased the allure, craftsmanship, and creativity of high-end jewelry. It was a remarkable celebration of Paris’s ability to captivate and inspire through not only couture fashion but also the exquisite artistry of jewelry design.
Useful Links:
1. Boucheron
2. Louis Vuitton
