Paris Fashion Week began with a bang as Victor Weinsanto and Alphonse Maîtrepierre showcased their untamed and expressive collections. Having studied under the renowned Jean Paul Gaultier, both designers brought a touch of the fashion world’s “enfant terrible” to their shows. Weinsanto reimagined his signature corset as strapless mini dresses with intricate lacing at the front and back. Transparent tulle gloves were a common accessory in both designers’ collections, adding an ethereal touch.
Weinsanto’s show was a true spectacle, held at Dover Street Market’s creative hub. The designer invited fellow stylists, LGBT performers, and entertainers from the vibrant Parisian nightlife scene to join him on the runway. The likes of drag queens Paloma and “La Grande Dame” turned heads in camel suits that featured unzipping and unbuttoning details. Australian artist and fashion designer Michaela Stark caught the audience’s attention as she showcased herself nearly naked under a delicate transparent veil. Former showgirl Allanah Star wore a flesh-colored “deshabillé,” truly embodying the provocative and boundary-pushing spirit of the show. Notable designers such as Charles de Vilmorin, Rochas’s young creative director, and the duo behind the Egonlab label, Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, also made appearances. Rising star Vincent Pressiat added to the lineup, making this a truly star-studded event.
The atmosphere of Weinsanto’s show was vibrant and festive, fully embracing a celebration of individuality. Models donned colorful and extravagant wardrobes, with designs ranging from nymphomaniac bimbos sporting bare breasts and thigh-high slits in their skirts to baroque silhouettes wearing asymmetrical basket dresses. Oversized accessories like rigid oblong or triangular bags and gigantic headdresses made from cascades of tulle amplified the theatricality of the show.
Alphonse Maîtrepierre’s collection also embodied a playful spirit, infused with a touch of poetry. Drawing inspiration from the tale of Peau d’âne (Donkey Skin) and Jacques Demy’s famous film adaptation, the designer offered his unique interpretation. The donkey was replaced by a horse made of flowery fabric, which could be worn as a cape or shawl over a fitted suit. Maîtrepierre cleverly incorporated the horse’s mouth into handbags, adding a whimsical element to his designs.
In homage to the fairy tale, Maîtrepierre’s dresses featured sky-blue trousers representing the “weather-colored” dress and a long flowing golden silk dress symbolizing the “sun-colored” attire. Balconette necklines and modern sportswear touches infused a contemporary twist into these fairy tale-inspired looks. The designer expertly played with tight-fitting sportswear and structured garments, creating new volumes with short flared jackets and altered silhouettes. He also incorporated the iconic image of Peau d’âne covering herself with a fur coat by draping garments off the shoulders.
Both Weinsanto and Maîtrepierre proved their talent for blending tradition with innovation, delivering bold and captivating collections that surpassed the boundaries of couture. Their shows set an exhilarating tone for the rest of Paris Fashion Week, promising a celebration of creativity and individuality.
For more information on the designers, please visit their official websites:
1. Victor Weinsanto: https://www.victorweinsanto.com
2. Alphonse Maîtrepierre: https://www.alphonsemaitrepierre.com
