Paris, as the unrivaled fashion capital of the world, continues to draw in top talent from across the globe. The latest testament to its allure was the unveiling of Spring/Summer 2024 collections by renowned designers Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto from Japan, Sean Suen from China, and Amiri from the USA. The third day of menswear fashion week in Paris became a showcase of these designers’ unique styles and solidified the city’s status as a global fashion hub.
Issey Miyake, famous for his signature plissé (pleating) technique, astounded the audience with his Homme Plissé line. The show took place at the Paris Decorative Arts Museum, where the Japanese label revealed the secrets behind their extraordinary fabric. A long roll of double-sheeted paper resembling a weaving machine graced the runway as black-clad tailors skillfully cut out the paper to unveil the finished garments. The collection featured lightweight and wrinkle-free plissé fabric in a delightful range of pastel colors, infusing a refreshing touch into the designs. The versatility of the plissé technique was showcased through a variety of styles, including tops, tunics, trousers, and shorts, all allowing for effortless movement.
Yohji Yamamoto, once again, presented his highly personal collection at the label’s headquarters in the Marais district. The collection was filled with graphic images that evoked the memories of yesteryears, adorning the garments in the form of sketches, illustrations, paintings, and photographs. The show commenced with dark looks featuring lightweight coats, suits, and shirts layered over loose trousers. Soft hats and silver dragonflies pinned to lapels added a romantic and carefree ambiance to the overall presentation. Gradually, graphic images prominently appeared on black and white shirts. Yamamoto’s distinct garment construction was highlighted through extraordinary details such as multiple shoulder tabs, fabric strips sewn onto lapels, and the astute use of large red safety pins to create the illusion of two distinct fabrics tied together.
Mike Amiri has firmly cemented his position as the new luxury designer from the USA with each collection he presents. His Spring/Summer 2024 collection took center stage in Jardin des Plantes in Paris, where he brought a slice of his native California. Palm trees swayed under the grey sky, and a friendly bar served as the focal point in the garden. The models emerged from the garden, gradually unveiling their ultra-chic yet informal outfits that perfectly captured the essence of Californian cool. Amiri’s retro style was elevated by the presence of silk neckerchiefs, woven raffia caps, and flowers adorning buttonholes. The collection featured jacquard cardigans, short-sleeved polos, and check ensembles, paying homage to Californian skateboarders. The deliberate pairing of vibrant colors and the artful combination of micro-patterns accentuated the meticulous fabric selection, often embellished with gold thread and crystals.
Sean Suen’s collection presented striking contrasts, with black and white in perfect harmony, reflecting the Yin and Yang concept in Chinese philosophy. The Beijing-born designer incorporated Chinese beliefs and symbols into the collection, such as jingly bells symbolizing good luck. Suen’s show depicted the journey from slumber to awakening, with looks transitioning from innocent white to bold black. The collection featured oversized suits, crocheted ensembles, and leather jackets, some daring combinations of knee-high boots and leather underwear adding an edgy touch. Suen’s collection blurred the lines between dreams and reality, leaving the audience with thought-provoking questions.
As Paris continues to attract the crème de la crème of the fashion world, it further strengthens its grip as the global fashion capital. Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Sean Suen, and Amiri presented their exceptional collections, each bringing their own cultural influences and design expertise to the city’s vibrant fashion scene. The unparalleled talent and creativity displayed during Paris Fashion Week once again prove that the city remains at the forefront of the fashion industry, setting trends and inspiring designers for seasons to come.
Useful Links:
– Vogue Magazine for the latest fashion news and trends.
– Business of Fashion for in-depth analysis and insights into the fashion industry.
