Paris Fashion Week is currently underway, and it has become a hotbed for designers to showcase their skills in cutting and reimagining garments. Renowned fashion houses like Sacai, Rokh, Lanvin, and Germanier have taken center stage, impressing audiences with their creativity and craftsmanship.
Sacai, known for its innovative designs, kicked off the show with a mesmerizing display of black and white optical illusions. Designer Chitose Abe skillfully wielded her scissors, transforming double-breasted dresses and maxi jackets with strategic cuts. Blazers and pleated shirts were reinvented as strapless dresses, while hems on dinner jackets were transformed into strips that seamlessly blended with pleats and fringes. The collection featured slashed and reduced garments, voluminous pagoda sleeves, and ruffled trouser bottoms. Jackets and anoraks were decapitated, creating a unique bustier-style look. The lower portions of these garments were turned into apron-like mini-skirts and belts with large side pockets, adding a practical yet effortless touch to the collection.
Similarly, Rokh played with the concept of deconstruction and transformation. Designer Rok Hwang drew inspiration from wardrobe classics like trench coats and suits, breaking them down to reconstruct long, flowing silhouettes. A trench coat, for example, became a bolero jacket paired with a skirt made from the same camel fabric wrapped spirally around the sides. Asymmetrical skirts in canvas or vinyl were created by mixing and layering layers of fabric with pleats. Metal eyelet punctured belts were tightly wrapped around the waist, falling gracefully along the legs. While the attention to detail and construction was undeniable, some critics felt that it overshadowed the overall purpose of the collection.
In contrast to Rokh, Lanvin took a more minimalist approach, presenting impeccably cut coats, shorts, and suits in a neutral palette. Creative director Bruno Sialelli gradually introduced sophisticated details, such as yellow embroidery or white buttons on a black coat, to elevate these simple looks. Brocade fabrics and printed silks added a pop of color to jackets and long skirts. Delicate tulle dresses gracefully caressed the body, while draped dresses featured pastel hues. The collection was accompanied by oriental music and tambourines, creating a captivating aquatic theme. Fishing nets, sparkling tops, and tunics added to the oceanic ambiance, with nets also serving as bags adorned with crystals. Turquoise leotards, resembling diving suits, were paired with long-haired mules resembling flippers.
Germanier made a bold return with an extravagant and vibrant collection for spring-summer 2023. Designer Kevin Germanier used his scissors to create holes and slashes in white shirts, embellishing the gaps with glitter silicone. Flesh-colored tulle tunics were reimagined, with some parts adorned with an abundance of embellishments while others were left bare. The collection exuded exuberance and creativity, featuring feathers, stones, sequins, fringes, and pearls meticulously arranged in colorful garlands or volumes. Fishnet dresses showcased intricate decorations akin to a spider’s web, and entire dresses were constructed from multicolored plastic necklaces. The grand finale featured a majestic capote made from light rainbow ostrich feathers, paired with a floating headdress that received thunderous applause.
In conclusion, Paris Fashion Week continues to be a dynamic platform for designers to showcase their mastery of cutting and reimagining garments. Sacai, Rokh, Lanvin, and Germanier have all demonstrated their unique visions and transformed clothing into pieces of wearable art. From Sacai’s playful slashing and voluminous details to Rokh’s deconstructed silhouettes, Lanvin’s minimalist elegance, and Germanier’s extravagant embellishments, each designer brings something special to the runway. Fashion enthusiasts eagerly await the next wave of creative brilliance that Paris Fashion Week has in store.
Links:
1. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/paris-spring-2023/sacai
2. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/paris-spring-2023/lanvin
