Paris Fashion Week Menswear continued on its second day with a dynamic lineup of designers who brought their own inimitable styles and influences to the runway. Bianca Saunders, Hed Mayner, AMI, and Acne Studios captivated the audience with their distinct visions for menswear, offering an eclectic range of designs.
Bianca Saunders, who recently received the highly esteemed ANDAM award, made her debut at Paris Fashion Week. Her collection showcased her remarkable talent for creating deceptively simple yet cutting-edge designs. Saunders played with folds, tucks, and unexpected details, resulting in a collection that felt both refreshing and extraordinary. Denim took center stage in her creations, with asymmetric seams and oversized silhouettes adding a captivating twist. Throughout the show, Saunders’ minimalistic yet instantly recognizable aesthetic was evident, solidifying her unique voice in the industry.
Hed Mayner, the recipient of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize, unveiled his winter 2022 collection through a stunning video shot inside the Centre National de la Danse in Paris. Renowned for his avant-garde tailoring and exceptional outerwear, Mayner showcased his unparalleled vision for menswear. His voluminous silhouettes and rugged designs caught the eye, with blanket coats made of Liberty-style florals stealing the spotlight. Collaborating with Macintosh, Mayner introduced a range of parkas, coats, and capes that showcased the brand’s renowned rubberized techniques. Adding an edgy touch to the overall aesthetic, the collection also included “destroyed knits” featuring deliberate holes and worn seams.
AMI, founded by Alexandre Mattiussi, presented a collection that exuded commercial appeal but left some longing for more originality. The show featured voluminous overcoats and houndstooth cabans, demonstrating Mattiussi’s keen understanding of fashion trends. Injecting a fresh twist into the collection, he incorporated Day-Glo colors into tuxedos and blazers. However, critics argued that the collection felt reminiscent of French fashion from the nineties and lacked true uniqueness. The show’s staging also faced criticism, with some finding it underwhelming. Nevertheless, AMI’s track record of successful collections suggests that Mattiussi will undoubtedly rebound next season, exhibiting his trademark ability to capture and reflect the cultural zeitgeist.
Acne Studios chose an unconventional approach, presenting its collection without a traditional runway show or video. Despite this, the brand managed to captivate with its innovative designs that pushed the boundaries of menswear. From oversized boots to sculpted biker jackets and leather blazers adorned with sherbet buttons, Acne Studios showcased its unwavering creativity. Quirkiness shone through with the incorporation of unconventional materials, such as kitchen-rag-wool weaves sewn onto sequined shirts. The choice of Espace Commines as the location for the collection added a nostalgic vibe, reminiscent of the iconic shows presented by Helmut Lang in the past. Acne Studios proved that fresh ideas can speak for themselves, even without a traditional runway presentation.
Overall, Paris Menswear Day Two presented a captivating array of styles and influences. From Bianca Saunders’ understated yet innovative designs to Hed Mayner’s avant-garde tailoring, these designers demonstrated that menswear is far from ordinary. Each collection left fashion enthusiasts with plenty of food for thought and anticipation for the future of men’s fashion.
Useful links:
1. Bianca Saunders Fall 2022 Menswear Collection
2. Acne Studios Fall 2022 Menswear Collection
