Paris Fashion Week Men made a dynamic comeback, combining live runway shows and digital presentations that marked a significant step towards the fashion capital’s recovery from lockdown. Among the standout designers were Bluemarble and Cool TM, who stole the show with their lively and vibrant collections for spring/summer 2022.
Bluemarble, a relatively young brand founded by Anthony Alvarez, a Filipino-French designer, presented its debut runway show in the mesmerizing courtyard of Archive National in the Marais district. The collection exuded an innovative fusion of styles, drawing inspiration from both tropical surfers and St Tropez playboys. Showcasing unexpected combinations, such as duel shirts layered over silk t-shirts and pajama pants, Bluemarble unleashed a riot of colors on the runway. Silk prints depicting coral reefs, tropical birds, and coconuts embellished the collection, effectively capturing the audience’s attention. The crowd erupted in thunderous applause, with Alvarez even running around the courtyard to express his exhilaration before taking a bow.
Cool TM chose to showcase its collection in a beautifully decrepit old Haussmann mansion overseeing the grand statue of George Washington. Designer Thomas Monet skillfully blended American-dude style with elements of French high-fashion and costume designs, resulting in a distinctive and captivating aesthetic. The collection featured offbeat reinterpretations of the iconic Chanel jacket, paired with distressed denim loon pants, as well as hyper-feminine teal blue floral-print pants matched with faux-crocodile jerkins. The mix of oversized ensembles, such as couture metallic jacket pants worn underneath an exaggerated lime green sweatshirt, aimed to turn heads and resonate with the Instagram generation.
London-based designer J W Anderson took a different approach by presenting a double-header look-book and video collection seminar. In the past year, Anderson had been sending meticulously curated “shows in the box” to influential editors and VIPs. For Paris Fashion Week, Anderson collaborated with renowned photographer Juergen Teller to create a look-book consisting of 33 printed images and a video message. The collection featured anchor logo chunky knits, seaside-stripe flared cocktails for women, and attention-grabbing giant strawberry print tracksuits for men. The prominent display of the JWA logo on pool sandals, socks, and tanks reinforced the brand’s identity. Anderson aimed to capture the indulgence and hedonism of those personal moments in one’s bedroom, allowing individuals to freely express their desired identity through fashion.
Another intriguing highlight was the revival of Courrèges under the creative direction of Nicolas di Felice. Staying true to the brand’s pop-futurist DNA, the collection incorporated early 60s checks, daring cut-outs, and trapeze coats and dresses. The designs took on a contemporary twist, featuring superhero-like silhouettes for men and retro space-age lines for women. The standout pieces included the white sleeveless Nehru logo jacket and the black patent leather version with a striking funnel neck. This collection breathed new life into the brand, demonstrating di Felice’s ability to honor Courrèges’ heritage while infusing it with a fresh and modern touch.
Overall, Paris Fashion Week Men presented a captivating mix of vibrant live shows and digital displays, illustrating the resilience and creativity of the fashion industry. The new labels, Bluemarble and Cool TM, injected energy and excitement into the runway with their eclectic and colorful collections. Meanwhile, J W Anderson and Courrèges showcased their unique styles through look-books, videos, and digital presentations, establishing their prowess in adapting to the changing landscape of fashion. This event not only signaled a hopeful return to fashion after a challenging year but also served as a testament to the industry’s ability to bounce back stronger than ever.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue: Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022
2. Fashion Week Online
