Paris Fashion Week for Men kicked off with a bang, as designers unveiled their groundbreaking and imaginative collections for the autumn-winter 2024/25 season. Standing out among the crowd were Botter and Lemaire, two brands that pushed the boundaries of menswear and captivated audiences with their unique visions.
Botter, renowned for its “Caribbean Couture,” continued to revolutionize classic menswear pieces. The brand breathed new life into the wool suit jacket by transforming it into a blouse or wearing it inside-out with a zipper down the back. The traditional jacket was replaced with a white or black cotton overshirt featuring tweed cuffs, giving a contemporary twist to the ensemble. The trench coat received a stunning reinvention, with the back flowing up to hang over the shoulders like a cape.
The collection incorporated vibrant tapestry prints, featuring suits and shirts crafted from the same floral fabric. Playful details such as thick-knit mountain socks doubling as elbow pads and tweed patches on knee trousers added a unique touch. One standout piece was a hybrid work jacket with large chest pockets that transformed into a classic houndstooth check version, complete with its own set of pockets.
Designers Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter drew inspiration from their Caribbean heritage, infusing their collection with rich cultural influences. Coats and jackets were fashioned from a patchwork of masculine fabrics, showcasing the designers’ unique perspective. The sporty theme prevailed with brightly colored jerseys, sweatshirts, and an exciting collaboration with Reebok. Additionally, the duo focused on ocean conservation, featuring a logo-slogan that juxtaposed a major oil company’s emblem with the word “hell” dripping in red, serving as a powerful warning against pollution.
On the other hand, Lemaire chose a more intimate setting at its Marais district headquarters to showcase its collection. Designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran aimed to create an atmosphere that resonated with the brand’s philosophy of simplicity and elegance. Models, both men and women, donned the same outfits, exuding a sense of unity and versatility. The collection utilized a single tone-on-tone hue, featuring multi-layered looks that combined various pieces and materials.
The show commenced with a light palette of natural shades, where knitwear took center stage. The brand’s attention to detail and exquisite craftsmanship was evident through second-skin silk knits, cozy woolen bodysuits, and gaiter tights. The models, flaunting long, loose hair, wore slippers or ballet pumps paired with pleated crepe tunics, evoking a sense of classical dance.
Lemaire explored the contrast between the domestic and external worlds, seamlessly blending silk or cotton pajamas with coats reminiscent of bathrobes. The designers skillfully blurred the lines between indoor and outdoor clothing, paying meticulous attention to the sleeves of their garments. Technical aspects were not overlooked, as Japanese nylon was used to mimic the appearance of silk, adding a touch of innovation.
Attitude played a crucial role in the collection, with cardigans tied at the waist or draped over the shoulder to mimic the shape of a shoulder bag. The juxtaposition of tailored pieces and outerwear created a sophisticated and timeless look. Silver pendants adorned jumpers and shirts, while laces tightened around the neck of shirts with decorated metal buckles, reminiscent of Western ties. Towards the end, the collection took on a folkloric inspiration, featuring thistle-print plaids and ethnic embroidery adorning jackets and coats, opening a new chapter in Lemaire’s aesthetic.
All in all, Paris Fashion Week for Men served as a platform for designers like Botter and Lemaire to showcase their ingenuity, creativity, and craftsmanship. Both brands redefined menswear codes, transforming traditional pieces into modern-day masterpieces. From Botter’s playful inventiveness to Lemaire’s chic and practical fashion, this fashion week proved to be a celebration of artistry and innovation.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue UK: Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022 Gallery
2. GQ: Best Street Style from Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021
